İstanbul - Lonely Planet

Transkript

Plan Your Trip
1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
İstanbul
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go
and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PL ANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Virginia Maxwell
Contents
4
Plan
PlanYour
YourTrip
Trip page 1
Welcome to İstanbul.......4
Top Itineraries.............. 20
Eating.......................... 29
İstanbul’s Top 10.............6
If You Like...................... 22
What’s New.................... 13
Month by Month........... 24
Drinking &
Nightlife ..................... 35
Need to Know................ 14
With Kids....................... 26
First Time İstanbul........ 16
Like a Local....................27
Getting Around..............18
For Free......................... 28
Explore İstanbul
Neighbourhoods at a
Glance........................... 46
Sultanahmet &
Around........................... 48
Bazaar District............. 86
Hamams & Spas........ 42
44
Western Districts....... 106
Kadıköy.........................148
Beyoğlu........................ 116
Day Trips..................... 154
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy &
Kuruçeşme.................. 141
Sleeping...................... 170
Understand İstanbul
İstanbul Today............ 180
Shopping..................... 38
179
History..........................182
Architecture................. 191
Survival Guide 201
Transport.................... 202
Language..................... 212
Directory A–Z..............207
Index.............................222
İstanbul Maps 236
İstanbul on Page &
Screen..........................196
KORHAN SEZER / GETTY IMAGES ©
MATT MUNRO / LONELY PLANET ©
DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES ©
(left) Mezes p30
Traditional small dishes
(above) Şakirin
Mosque p151 Modern
mosque in Üsküdar
(right) Topkapı Palace
p57 Famous palace with
a colourful history
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy
& Kuruçeşme
p141
Western
Districts
p106
Beyoğlu
p116
Bazaar
District
p86
Sultanahmet
& Around
p48
Kadıköy
p148
MARK READ / LONELY PLANET ©
44
Explore
İstanbul
Neighbourhoods
at a Glance . . . . . . . . . 46
Beyoğlu . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Day Trips . . . . . . . . . . 154
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
The Bosphorus. . . . . . . . . . . 155
Sultanahmet &
Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
The Golden Horn . . . . . . . . . 164
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Princes’ Islands . . . . . . . . . . 167
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 134
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 82
Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 140
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy
& Kuruçeşme. . . . . . . . 141
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . . 85
Bazaar District. . . . . . 86
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Western Districts. . . 106
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Eating & Drinking. . . . . . . . . 115
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 147
Kadıköy . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . 170
45
İSTANBUL’S
TOP SIGHTS
Aya Sofya........................... 50
Topkapı Palace...................57
Blue Mosque......................67
Istanbul Archaeology
Museums............................69
Basilica Cistern.................. 71
Grand Bazaar.................... 88
Süleymaniye Mosque........ 91
Spice Bazaar......................93
Kariye Museum
(Chora Church)................108
İstiklal Caddesi..................118
İstanbul Modern................119
Dolmabahçe Palace......... 143
Kadıköy Produce
Market...............................150
20
Top Itineraries
Day One
Day Two
Sultanahmet & Around (p48)
Head to Aya Sofya Meydanı (Square)
and work out which of the museums
and mosques in the immediate area will
be on your visiting list. Don’t miss Aya
Sofya, the Blue Mosque and the Basilica
Cistern.
M
M
It’s time to investigate the lifestyles
of the sultans at Topkapı Palace.
You’ll need a half day to explore the palace
Harem, marvel at the precious objects in the
Treasury and wander through the pavilionfilled grounds.
Lunch Investigate the cheap eateries
on Sirkeci’s Hocapaşa Sokak (p80).
Lunch Matbah (p82) serves Ottoman food in a pleasant garden setting.
Beyoğlu (p116)
Diverge from the tourist trail and
visit some of Sultanahmet’s hidden
highlights by following our walking tour
(p78. Source some souvenirs in the historic
Arasta Bazaar.
Explore the streets, cafes and
boutiques of Galata and Çukurcuma,
perhaps popping into Orhan Pamuk’s nostalgic Museum of Innocence.
R
Dinner Have fish at Balıkçı Sabahattin
(p81) or kebaps at Hamdi (p100).
After enjoying an early dinner,
make your way to Sirkeci, where you
can watch dervishes whirl at Hocapaşa
Cultural Centre, a converted 15th-century
hamam. Alternatively, claim a table at
Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi or Cafe Meşale,
where you can enjoy tea, nargile (water
pipe) and a free (but very touristy) whirlingdervish performance.
N
R
Dinner Karaköy (p128) in Beyoğlu is the
city’s new eating and drinking hotspot.
Sultanahmet (p48) & the Bazaar
District (p86)
You’ve spent a full day sightseeing,
so why not relax in the steamy surrounds of an Ottoman-era hamam after
dinner?
N
21
Day Four
Bazaar District (p86)
The Bosphorus (p155)
Get ready to explore the city’s
famous Bazaar District. After visiting the most magnificent of all Ottoman
mosques, the Süleymaniye, make your
way to the world-famous Grand Bazaar
to explore its labyrinthine lanes and hidden caravanserais.
M
M
Lunch Grab a cheap eat in or around
the Grand Bazaar (p98).
Board the Long Bosphorus Tour
(Uzun Boğaz Turu) for a one-way
trip up the Bosphorus and then make your
way back to town by bus, visiting museums and monuments along the way. Alternatively, take the Dentur Avraysa hop-on/
hop-off tour from Kabataş and visit
the Sakıp Sabancı Museum in Emirgan,
Küçüksu Kasrı and Beylerbeyi Palace.
Lunch MüzedeChanga (p163) for its
terrace and Modern Turkish cuisine.
Bazaar District (p86)
After lunch follow the steady
stream of local shoppers making
their way down the hill to the Spice Bazaar. While there, seek out the exquisite
Rüstem Paşa Mosque, camouflaged in
the midst of a busy produce market. As the
sun starts to set, walk across the Galata
R
Beyoğlu (p116)
If you decided to take a 90-minute
cruise on a Bosphorus excursion
boat rather than the full-day or hop-on/
hop-off trip, you can devote the afternoon
to investigating Beyoğlu’s exciting contemporary-art scene. Don’t miss the İstanbul
R
Dinner Asmalımescit (p130) in Beyoğlu
has lots of restaurants and taverns.
Bridge towards the eating and entertainment district of Beyoğlu.
Beyoğlu (p116)
Enjoy an after-dinner drink and
the view at one of Beyoğlu’s rooftop
bars before winding down at the Tophane
nargile cafes.
N
Dinner Relax in a casual but chic cafe
in Cihangir (p133).
Modern museum and the ARTER and
SALT cultural centres.
Beyoğlu (p116)
Finish your day chilling out to
live jazz at longstanding favourite
Nardis Jazz Club or relative newcomer
Nublu İstanbul.
N
PL A N YO U R TRI P T o p I ti n e rari e s
Day Three
Our Story
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief
that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Our Writer
Virginia Maxwell
Although based in Australia, Virginia spends much of her year researching
guidebooks in the Mediterranean region. Of these countries, Turkey is unquestionably her favourite. As well as working on the previous four editions of the
İstanbul city guide, she is the author of Lonely Planet’s Pocket İstanbul and the
İstanbul and Thrace & Marmara chapters of Lonely Planet’s Turkey guidebook.
She also writes about the city for a host of international magazines and websites. Virginia usually travels with partner Peter and son Max, who have grown to love Turkey as
much as she does.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
8th edition – February 2015
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74321 477 0
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in China
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
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retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
2 36
İstanbul Maps
Sights
Beach
Bird Sanctuary
Buddhist
Castle/Palace
Christian
Confucian
Hindu
Islamic
Jain
Jewish
Monument
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building
Ruin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
Shinto
Sikh
Taoist
Winery/Vineyard
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary
Other Sight
Activities,
Courses & Tours
Bodysurfing
Diving
Canoeing/Kayaking
Course/Tour
Skiing
Snorkelling
Surfing
Swimming/Pool
Walking
Windsurfing
Other Activity
Sleeping
Sleeping
Camping
Eating
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Drinking & Nightlife
Cafe
Entertainment
Entertainment
Shopping
Shopping
Information
Bank
Embassy/Consulate
Hospital/Medical
Internet
Police
Post Office
Telephone
Toilet
Tourist Information
Other Information
Geographic
Beach
Hut/Shelter
Lighthouse
Lookout
Mountain/Volcano
Oasis
Park
Pass
Picnic Area
Waterfall
Population
Capital (National)
Capital (State/Province)
City/Large Town
Town/Village
Transport
Airport
Border crossing
Bus
Cable car/Funicular
Cycling
Ferry
Metro station
Monorail
Parking
Petrol station
S-Bahn/Subway station
Taxi
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Train station/Railway
Tram
Tube station
U-Bahn/Underground station
Other Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed above
appear on the maps in this book
Routes
Tollway
Freeway
Primary
Secondary
Tertiary
Lane
Unsealed road
Road under construction
Plaza/Mall
Steps
Tunnel
Pedestrian overpass
Walking Tour
Walking Tour detour
Path/Walking Trail
Boundaries
International
State/Province
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
Hydrography
River, Creek
Intermittent River
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Reef
Areas
Airport/Runway
Beach/Desert
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Glacier
Mudflat
Park/Forest
Sight (Building)
Sportsground
Swamp/Mangrove
9 Kariye Museum (p254
8 Kadıköy (p253)
7 Western Districts (p252)
6 Beşiktaş, Ortaköy &
Kuruçeşme (p250)
5 Beyoğlu – Southwest (p248)
4 Beyoğlu – Northeast (p244)
3 Bazaar District (p242)
2 Sultanahmet & Around –
South (p240)
1 Sultanahmet & Around –
North (p238)
MAP INDEX
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
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1
1
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1
1
1
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1
e
# 00
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
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1
1
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1
AKSARAY
FATİH
HIZIR ÇAVUŞ
FENER
BALAT
HASKÖY
1
Go
ld
e
1
1
1
KADIRGA
KUMKAPI
2 km
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Sea of Marmara
(Marmara Denizi)
"
Ð
2
0
0
Sultanahmet
0
0
Park
0
0
Gülhane
Park
KARAKÖY
"
Ð
1
ÇUKURCUMA
"
Ð
4
Maçka
Park
NIŞANTAŞI
ELMADAĞ
HARBIYE
BOZKURT
1
1
1
TARLABAŞI
1
1
BEYOĞLU
1
1
GALATA
"
Ð
5
KÜÇÜK
PIYALE
1
1
00
00
00
0
0
00
00
00
00
0
00
LALELİ 0
0
0
0
0
0
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0
0
0000 0
1 mile
1
1
1
1
Feriköy
1
1
1
Mezarlığı
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
KURTULUŞ
)
SÜLEYMANİYE
Saraçhane
Park
"
Ð
3
"
Ð
7
1
Musevı
1
1 OKMEYDANI
1
1
Mezarlığı
1
1
HALICIOĞLU
1
1
1
ç
ali
(H
rn
o
H
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
EYÜP
1
1
1
1
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Ð
6
içi
)
ğa
z
n
Bosp
h
o
r
u
s St
rai
t (B
o
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
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1
1
1
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1
1
"
Ð
8
1
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1
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KADIKÖY
1
1
Karaca
1
1
Ahmet
1
1
1
1
1
HAYDARPAŞA
1
1
SELİMİYE
1
1
1
1
1
HACİ HESNA
HATUN
ORTAKÖY
1
1
KEFÇEDEDE
İHSANİYE
SALACAK
ÜSKÜDAR
BEŞİKTAŞ
YILDIZ
Yıldız
Park
1
2 37
238
B
A
e
# 00
C
Bosphorus Excursion Ferry
ç)
(Hali
or n
f
# Ferries to Üsküdar
en H
d
l
1
o
f
# Ferries to Kadıköy
G
# Res
Eminönü ¤
ad
f
# Car Ferry to Harem
iy e
Ca
d
alı Kö şk
olu)
ü Ca d
ahil Y
Kennedy Cad (S
SİRKECİ
Ha
D
Bosphorus
Strait
(Boğaziçi)
Ank
a
Cad ra
Y
e C Sirkeci
ad
#
# ï
þ¤
19 #
yon Ark
¡
# Sirkeci
İstas
as
iS
# Sirkeci
2
12 ú
#
k
Train
Station
A şi ò
#
11
ú
#
Nöbetha
r Ef
ne Cad
en d
ú
# ú
15
#
13
i Cad
Children's
#
Playground #
Ce
Hocapaşa ß
m
â
#
7
Gülhane
Mosque E
An
bu
Park
# 10
# ú
ad
23 ÿ
ss
Ca
uu
ir
Sk
d
÷
Ca
6#
İstanbul
Topkapı V
d
#2
Erkek
Palace
¤
# Gülhane
g
h
#
18 ü
2
Ha
ve
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#
9æ
1
aǧ CAĞALOĞLU Kon
ağ
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â
#
ıS
ad
İstanbul
k
æ
#
3
20
Cağaloğlu
Archaeology
Ø
#
Meydanı
Museums
#
21 ÿ
ú
#
#
ÿ
14
Ü
#4
24
â
#5
û
#
#
ÿ
22
æ
#
û
#
16
17
8
Tic
ar
e Sk
Çat a l Çeş m
ALEMDAR
See map
p240
¤
#
Sultanahmet
3
oc
Ca
d
rk
kü
an
ne Sk
d
Ca
Alemdar Cad
t
ba
ha
et
A
Topkapı Palace
Court of Janissaries
(First Court)
ay
kö
ş
d
Ali C
a
Al
re
Sk
Babı
Ye
M o l la Feneri
4
#
Seraglio Point
(Saray Burnu)
Tay
a
da
Hü
N
Lisesi
Tü
3
1
Saray
Burnu
tun
Sk
See map
p242
al
sultanahmet & around – north
f
#
mi
d iy
200 m
0.1 miles
B
i
j
4
C
æ Top Sights
(p50) ú Eating
(p80)
1 İstanbul Archaeology
10 Gülhane Kandil
Museums .................... C3
Tesisleri....................... B3
2 Topkapı Palace.............. C3
11 Güvenç Konyalı ............. A2
12 Hafız Mustafa ............... A2
æ Sights
(p72)
13 Hocapaşa Pidecisi......... A2
3 Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar
Matbah ................. (see 22)
Literature
14 Sefa Restaurant ............ A4
Museum Library......... B3
15 Şehzade Cağ Kebabı .... A2
4 Aya İrini ..........................C4
5 Caferağa Medresesi ..... B4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p82)
Caferağa Medresesi Çay
6 Gülhane Park................. B3
7 İstanbul Museum of the
Bahçesi.................(see 5)
History of Science
16 Cihannüma .................... B4
& Technology in
17 Kybele Cafe.................... B4
Islam ............................ B2
18 Set Üstü Çay Bahçesi... D2
8 Soğukçeşme Sokak...... C4
9 Sublime Porte................ B3
D
ý Entertainment
(p83)
Hocapaşa Culture
Centre.................(see 13)
þ Shopping
(p83)
19 Özlem Tuna.................... A2
Ø Sports & Activities (p85)
20 Cağaloğlu Hamamı ....... A3
ÿ Sleeping
(p173)
21 Cheers Hostel................ B4
22 Ottoman Hotel
Imperial ....................... B4
23 Sirkeci Mansion............. B3
24 Zeynep Sultan Hotel..... B4
2 39
SULTANAHMET & AROUND - SOUTH Map on p240
SULTANAHMET & AROUND – SOUTH
æ Top Sights
(p50)
Hotel Nomade Terrace Bar ............. (see 65)
1 Aya Sofya ......................................................F1
35 Yeşil Ev..........................................................F3
2 Basilica Cistern ............................................E1
3 Blue Mosque................................................D4 þ Shopping
(p83)
36 Cocoon ........................................................ E5
æ Sights
(p72)
37 Cocoon......................................................... D5
4 Arasta Bazaar..............................................E4
38 Galeri Kayseri...............................................B1
5 Aya Sofya Tombs........................................ F2
39 Iznik Classics ...............................................F3
6 Carpet Museum .......................................... G1
40 Iznik Classics............................................... E4
7 Fountain of Sultan Ahmet III ..................... G1
41 Jennifer's Hamam ..................................... D6
8 Great Palace Mosaic Museum .................. E5
42 Jennifer's Hamam ...................................... E5
9 Hippodrome ................................................C3
43 Jennifer's Hamam 2................................... E4
10 Imperial Gate............................................... G1
44 Khaftan ........................................................ C5
11 Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain .........................D2
45 Mehmet Çetinkaya .................................... E4
12 Lâle Pastanesi (Pudding Shop) ................D2
46 Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery........................ D5
13 Little Aya Sofya ...........................................A6
47 Tulu............................................................... B4
14 Marmara University Republican
48 Yilmaz Ipekçilik ...........................................H4
Museum ....................................................B4
15 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts ...........C3 Ø Sports & Activities
(p85)
16 Nakkaş..........................................................C5
49 Ambassador Spa.........................................D1
17 Obelisk of Theodosius................................C4
50 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı ............F2
18 Rough-Stone Obelisk .................................C4
51 Cooking Alaturka........................................ F4
19 Sokullu Şehit Mehmet Paşa Mosque .......A4
52 İstanbul Walks............................................. C5
20 Sphendone ..................................................C5
21 Spiral Column..............................................C4 ÿ Sleeping
(p173)
22 Sultanahmet Archaeological Park
53 Ahmet Efendi Evi ........................................ F6
(under restoration).................................. F2
54 Arcadia Blue Hotel ..................................... B3
55 Bahaus Hostel............................................. F4
ú Eating
(p80)
56 Big Apple Hostel ......................................... F4
23 Ahırkapı Balıkçısı......................................... F6
57 Dersaadet Hotel.......................................... D6
24 Balıkçı Sabahattin.......................................G5
58 Emine Sultan Hotel .................................... D6
25 Çiğdem Pastanesi....................................... B1
59 Erten Konak................................................. E6
26 Cooking Alaturka ........................................ F5
60 Grand Peninsula .........................................G4
27 Erol Lokantası.............................................. B1
61 Hanedan Hotel............................................ G3
28 Hafız Mustafa ..............................................D2
62 Hotel Alp Guesthouse................................ G3
29 Karadeniz Aile Pide ve Kebap
63 Hotel Empress Zoe..................................... G3
Salonu ....................................................... C1 64 Hotel Ibrahim Pasha .................................. B4
30 Sedef Beyaz................................................. B1
65 Hotel Nomade..............................................D1
31 Sofa Cafe Restaurant................................. F4
66 Hotel Peninsula........................................... G3
32 Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim
67 Hotel Şebnem ............................................. G3
Usta ...........................................................D2 68 Hotel Uyan ...................................................F3
69 Marmara Guesthouse................................ G3
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p82)
70 Metropolis Hostel.......................................G4
33 Cafe Meşale .................................................E4
71 Osman Han Hotel .......................................G4
34 Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi .............................E3
72 Sarı Konak Hotel..........................................F5
24 0
Key on p239
B
ad
A
Işık S
k
d
kte
m
İm
ra
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24 3
E
w
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Galata Bridge
(Galata Köprüsü)
1
(p88)
38 Kahve Dünyası ...................... E5
1 Grand Bazaar ........................D5
39 Kahve Dünyası ......................D2
2 Spice Bazaar .........................E2
40 Lale Bahçesi ..........................B3
3 Süleymaniye Mosque .......... C3
41 Mimar Sinan Teras Cafe ......C2
42 Pandeli ................................... E2
#
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h
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4 Aqueduct of Valens ..............A3
44 Vefa Bozacısı......................... A3
5 Beyazıt Meydanı....................C5
45 Zeyrekhane ............................A1
6 Beyazıt Mosque ....................C5
7 Beyazıt Tower....................... C4 þ Shopping
(p102)
f
#
f
# Turyol Bosphorus
8 Büyük Valide Han................. D4
Abdulla Natural
Ferry
9 Çemberlitaş ........................... E5
Products ................... (see 26)
2
Ca d
10 Church of the Monastery
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of Christ Pantokrator ........ A1
47 Ak Gümüş .............................. D5
ü
# 42 14
Fourth
11 Galata Bridge......................... E1
48 Ali Muhıddin Hacı Bekir........ E3
#2
æ
ß
# Vakıf
Han
Spice H
12 İstanbul University............... C3
49 Altan Şekerleme ...................C2
#Bazaar amid
þ
54
13 Mahmutpaşa Hamamı .........E4
50 Armine....................................D4
##
þ 67 Cad iye þ
59 #
14 New Mosque..........................E2
51 Derviş .....................................D5
# 48
þ
EMİNÖNÜ
15 Nuruosmaniye Mosque........E5
Derviş 2 ........................ (see 37)
Büy
ük
P
3
16 Rüstem Paşa Mosque ......... D2
52 Derviş 3 ..................................D4
# ostan
69 þ
Cad e
17 Şehzade Mehmet Mosque...A4
53 Dhoku.....................................D5
Aşir E
fend
i Ca
18 Tombs of Süleyman and
EthniCon ...................... (see 53)
d
Yenicamii
Roxelana ............................ C3
54 Hafız Mustafa ....................... E3
Cad
55 Haşimi Ticaret.......................D5
k Ho
rS
ú Eating
(p98)
56 Iznik Classics.........................D5
fe
19 Aynen Dürüm ........................D5
57 Koç Deri Leather...................D5
20 Bahar Restaurant .................D5
58 Kurukahveci Mehmet
4
21 Bena Dondurmaları .............. E5
Efendi ..................................D3
See map
22 Bereket Döner .......................B2
59 Malatya Pazarı ...................... E3
â
# 13
p238
Be zc i le rSk
23 Develi Baklava ...................... D2
Mehmet Kalmaz
24 Dönerci Şahin Usta...............E5
Baharat ..................... (see 67)
25
0
0
#
ú
0
0
25 Dürümcü Raif Usta ...............E4
60 Mekhann ................................ D5
0
0
#
ú
0
0
024
0
Fes Cafe ....................... (see 37)
Muhlis Günbattı .......... (see 27)
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#
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26 Fes Cafe .................................E5
61 Paşabahçe ............................. E5
ß
# 15 66
# 38
#
þ#
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27 Gazientep Burç Ocakbaşı ... D4
62 Sahaflar Çarşısı.....................C5
ú
##
þ
26 63 65
5 28 Hamdi Restaurant ............... D2
Serhat Geridönmez ....(see 46)
29 Havuzlu Restaurant..............D5
63 Sevan Bıçakçı........................ E5
â
# Vezir
21
Han
Kokoreççi Erdinç
64 Silk & Cashmere ...................D5
# 9á
ú
# Ø
# 71
Usta ...........................(see 24)
65 Silk & Cashmere ................... E5
¤
#
EMİN Çemberlitaş
30 Kuru Fasulyeci Erzincanlı
66 Sofa ........................................ E5
SİNAN
Ali Baba ............................. C3
67 Ucuzcular Baharat ............... E3
Gedikpaşa
73
Camii Sk
31 Mavi Haliç Pidecisi ............... D2
68 Ümit Berksoy ........................D5
ÿ
#
e
32 Meşhur Dönerci Hacı
69 Vakko İndirim ........................ E3
Hamamı Sk Piy
6
d
Osman'ın Yeri .................... C4
70 Yazmacı Necdet Danış.........D4
a
C
33 Namlı ..................................... D2
34 Pak Pide & Pizza Salonu ..... D3 Ø Sports & Activities
(p105)
71 Çemberlitaş Hamamı ........... E5
(p101)
72 Gedikpaşa Hamamı..............D6
See map
Ka
35 Darüzziyafe (Former Soup
dır
p240
ga
Kitchen)...............................B3 ÿ Sleeping
(p176)
Cinci
36 Erenler Nargile ve Çay
73 Burckin Suites Hotel ............ E6
Meydanı
7
Bahçesi................................D5
74 Hayriye Hanım Konağı .........C2
Sk
Ca
d
37 Ethem Tezçakar Kahveci .....D5
75 Saruhan Hotel ....................... D7
Turyol
Ferries to
Kadıköy &
Üsküdar
24 4
Key on p246
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24 6
BEYOĞLU - NORTHEAST Map on p244
æ Top Sights
(p118)
1 İstiklal Caddesi............................................C5
25 Bigudi ..........................................................D4
26 Club 17 .........................................................D4
27 Hazzo Pulo Çay Bahçesi............................ B5
æ Sights
(p120)
28 Indigo ...........................................................B6
2 Akbank Art Centre......................................D4
29 Kiki................................................................ E5
3 Atatürk Cultural Centre .............................F4
30 Litera ............................................................ B6
4 Avrupa Pasajı...............................................B5
31 Manda Batmaz............................................ B6
5 Balık Pazarı ..................................................B5
32 MiniMüzikHol .............................................. E6
Şarlo Cafe Pub .................................. (see 25)
6 Çiçek Pasajı .................................................B5
7 Galerı Apel....................................................C6
33 Tek Yön ........................................................ E5
8 Galerı Nev ...................................................B6
34 Urban ........................................................... C5
9 Pera Museum ..............................................A6
Republic Monument.......................... (see 11) ý Entertainment
(p137)
10 SALT Beyoğlu..............................................B6
35 Garajistanbul............................................... B6
11 Taksim Meydanı..........................................E3
36 Jolly Joker ................................................... C5
12 Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi ...........................B5
37 Munzur Cafe & Bar..................................... D5
ú Eating
(p128) þ Shopping
(p138)
13 Çokçok .........................................................A6
38 A La Turca ................................................... D5
14 Çukur Meyhane...........................................C5
39 Ali Muhıddin Hacı Bekir .............................D4
15 Enstitü ..........................................................A6
40 Beyoğlu Olgunlaşma Enstıtüsü ................D4
16 Hacı Abdullah ..............................................C4
41 Leyla Eski Eşya Pazarlama........................ D6
17 İnci Pastanesi ..............................................D4
42 Mephisto...................................................... C5
18 Kafe Ara........................................................B6
43 Nahıl .............................................................D4
19 Kitchenette ..................................................E4
44 Petek Turşuları ........................................... B5
20 Klemuri .........................................................D5
45 Reşat Balık Market .................................... B5
21 Social............................................................D6
46 Sütte Şarküteri .......................................... B5
22 Zübeyir Ocakbaşı........................................D4
47 Tarihi Beyoğlu Ekmek Fırını ..................... B5
Üç Yıldız Şekerleme ......................... (see 46)
(p134)
360........................................................ (see 8) Ø Sports & Activities
(p140)
23 5 Kat..............................................................E6
Istanbul Culinary Institute................ (see 15)
24 Araf ...............................................................C4
247
BEYOĞLU - SOUTHWEST Map on p248
æ Top Sights
(p119)
1 İstanbul Modern.......................................... F3
45 Dem .............................................................. D4
46 FerahFeza.................................................... E4
BEYOĞLU – SOUTHWEST
47 Karabatak ................................................... E4
æ Sights
(p120) 48 Leb-i Derya .................................................. D2
2 Arab Mosque ...............................................B4
Leb-i Derya Richmond ..................... (see 80)
3 ARTER .......................................................... D1
49 Mavra ........................................................... D3
4 Christ Church ..............................................D3
Mikla ................................................... (see 79)
5 Depo ............................................................. E3
50 Münferit ........................................................ E1
6 Elipsis Gallery ..............................................E4
NuTeras ..............................................(see 10)
7 Galata Mevlevi Museum.............................C2
51 Off Pera.........................................................C1
8 Galata Tower ...............................................C4
52 Sensus Wine Bar ........................................ C3
9 Galeri Manâ..................................................E4
53 Smyrna ......................................................... F1
10 Galerist......................................................... C1
54 Tophane Nargile Cafes ...............................F3
11 Jewish Museum of Turkey.........................C5
55 Unter ............................................................ E4
12 Kasa Galeri...................................................C4
56 White Mill ......................................................G1
13 Museum of Innocence.................................E1
X Bar................................................... (see 65)
14 Patisserie Lebon .........................................C2
15 Pera Palace Hotel ....................................... C1 ý Entertainment
(p137)
16 SALT Galata.................................................C5
57 Babylon........................................................ C2
17 Schneidertempel Art Center.....................C4
Galata Mevlevi Museum .....................(see 7)
58 Nardis Jazz Club......................................... C4
ú Eating
(p128)
59 Nublu İstanbul............................................. C4
18 Aheste ..........................................................D3
Salon .................................................. (see 65)
19 Antiochia......................................................C2
20 Asmalı Canım Ciğerim ............................... C1 þ Shopping
(p138)
21 Asmalı Cavit................................................. C1
60 Artrium......................................................... C3
22 Cafe Privato.................................................C3
61 Arzu Kaprol ................................................. C3
23 Datlı Maya .....................................................F1
62 Berrin Akyüz.................................................G1
24 Delicatessan ................................................ C1
63 Denizler Kitabevi..........................................D1
25 Demeti.......................................................... G1
64 Hiç ................................................................ D3
26 Duble Meze Bar........................................... C1
65 İKSV Tasarım Mağazası............................. B2
27 Fürreyya Galata Balıkçısı ...........................C3
66 İroni .............................................................. C4
28 Gram.............................................................C2
67 İstanbul Kitapçısı.........................................D1
29 Helvetia Lokanta .........................................C2
68 İstanbul Modern Gift Shop.........................F3
30 House Cafe ..................................................C2
69 La Cave Wine Shop ..................................... F1
31 İstanbul Modern Cafe/Restaurant........... F3
70 Lale Plak....................................................... C2
32 Jash............................................................... G1
71 Mariposa.......................................................G1
33 Journey .........................................................F1
72 Old Sandal ................................................... C3
34 Kahve 6 .........................................................F1
73 Paşabahçe....................................................D1
35 Karaköy Güllüoğlu ......................................D5
74 Selda Okutan .............................................. E4
36 Karaköy Lokantası......................................E4
75 Tezgah Alley.................................................C1
37 Kiva Han .......................................................C3
38 Lokanta Maya..............................................E4 Ø Sports & Activities
(p140)
39 Meze by Lemon Tree.................................. C1
76 Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı ................................ E3
40 Midpoint ....................................................... D1
Mikla ................................................... (see 79) ÿ Sleeping
(p176)
41 Namlı ............................................................D5
77 Galateia Residence..................................... D2
42 Sofyalı 9 .......................................................C2
78 Has Han Galata........................................... C4
43 Tarihi Karaköy Balık Lokantası .................C5
79 Marmara Pera..............................................C1
80 Richmond Hotel.......................................... C2
(p134)
81 TomTom Suites ...........................................D1
44 Atölye Kuledıbı ............................................C4
82 Vault Karaköy.............................................. C5
Baylo...................................................(see 28)
83 Witt Istanbul Hotel ......................................F2
Cihangir 21 .........................................(see 33) 84 World House Hostel ................................... C3
24 8
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4
# Dolmabahçe
V
Palace
A
B
æ Top Sights
(p143)
1 Dolmabahçe Palace....................................A5
C
D
7 Yıldız Porselen Fabrikası ........................... E2
8 Yıldız Şale .....................................................C1
æ Sights
(p144) ú Eating
(p145)
2 Çırağan Palace ............................................D4
9 Banyan..........................................................F3
3 İstanbul Naval Museum .............................B5
House Cafe...........................................(see 9)
4 National Palaces Painting Museum .........B5
10 Kitchenette...................................................F3
5 Ortaköy Mosque .........................................G3
11 Kümpir & Waffle Stands............................G3
6 Yıldız Park ....................................................D2
12 Vogue........................................................... A4
251
E
e
#
F
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0
500 m
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H
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KURUÇEŞME
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13 Zuma............................................................. F3 Ø Sports & Activities
(p147)
Four Seasons Istanbul at the
Bosphorus .......................................(see 21)
(p146)
14 Cafes & Bars ............................................... C4
15 Çırağan Palace Kempinski Hotel ............. D4 ÿ Sleeping
(p176)
16 Kiki ................................................................F3
20 Armaggan Bosporus Suites......................G2
17 Malta Köşkü................................................ D2
21 Four Seasons Istanbul at the
18 Reina............................................................ G2
Bosphorus ................................................D4
19 Sortie ............................................................ H1
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme
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ÇARŞAMBA ß
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(p115) 1 1 1 1
1
1
1
11 Asitane ........................................................ B3 1 1 1 1
1
1
12 Köfteci Arnavut .......................................... D3 1 E1 1 1 1
dir
13 Tarihi Haliç İşkembecisi............................ D3 1Ram1 nek1
1
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(p111)
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1
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ol 1 1 1
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e
1
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1
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l
u
6 Mihrimah Sultan Hamamı......................... A4
1
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n1b 1 1 1 1
7 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque ......................... A4 1 s1ta 1 1 1 1
İ 1 1 1 1 1
1
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a şı
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1
1
1
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cib
Porphyrogenitus ..................................... B2 12 1 1 1 1 1 1
1
1
1
1
1
1
9 Patriarchal Church of St George ............. D3 1 1 1 1 1 1 C 1
10 Yavuz Sultan Selim Mosque..................... D4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1Ot1 1 1 M1e1şa1tlı
B
va
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ay
ar
ns
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m
ar
cı
S
æ Top Sights
(p108)
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A
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0.05 miles
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a şı
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Mu
vak
k
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hay bah
yes
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k
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la #
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da
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Sea of Marmara
(Marmara Denizi)
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et Sevkı B
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4
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ad
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l
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d a
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ife S
k
H şü
kr ü
Sk
Gen Asim
Günd
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ah ariye
) Cad
Sö
zd
en
er
Ca
d
Alb
ay
Fa
ik
dar
C
Mühür
æ Top Sights
(p150)
1 Kadıköy Produce Market ....................... E2
ú Eating
(p151)
2 Baylan Pastanesi .....................................E1
3 Çiya Sofrası.............................................. E2
(p151)
5 Kadı Nımet Balıkçılık................................E1
4 Etabal.........................................................E1
7 Karga Bar .................................................D4
6 Fazıl Bey....................................................E1
ý Entertainment
(p153)
8 Süreyya Opera House ............................D3
þ Shopping
(p153)
9 Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir.......................... D1
11 Mesut Güneş ............................................E1
10 Mephisto .................................................. D1
12 Soy ............................................................C4
ÿ Sleeping
(p177)
13 Hush Moda............................................... E2
ad
254
38
1
3 A
KARİYE MUSEUM
5B
2
4
5A
7 B
9B
6
8
9A
Outer
Narthex
Exit 11
10
C
12
13B
13A
KARİYE MUSEUM
36
39 G 40
34
37
35
41B
41A
Annex
50C
43 H 44
42
45B
45A
47 I 48
46
Nave
50A
Apse
49B 49A
32
29
Inner
Narthex
15 D 14
16
17B
17A
31
19 E 18
30
26B
50B
J 33
27
28
26A
20
77 68
22
21
F
23
78
76
K 25
24
P
7473
65 U
69 72
75
67
60
57
Parecclesion
70
56 O
64
63 62 59
71 66
61
58
53
L
N M 51
55 54 52
Entrance
æ Mosaics
1 The voyage of the Virgin to Bethlehem &
the dream of Joseph
2 The census held for the enrolment for
taxation & registration of Mary & Joseph
in the presence of Cyrenius, Governor of
Syria
3 Jesus going with Mary & Joseph to
Jerusalem
4 Remains of mosaics – Jesus among the
doctors in the temple
5A St Trachos
5B St Andronikus
6 The birth of Jesus
7 The return of the Virgin Mary with Jesus
8 The attempts of Satan to deceive Jesus
9A St Georgios
9B St Demetrius
10 Jesus & the inscription ‘the dwelling-place
of the living’
11 The prayer of the Virgin & the attendant
angels
12 The wedding at Cana & the miracles
13A Depiction of the saints
13B Depiction of the saints
14 The Magi on their way to Jerusalem riding
on horseback & the three Magi in
audience with King Herod
15 Elizabeth & John the Baptist running away
from a pursuing soldier
16 Remains of mosaics
17A Depiction of the saints
17B Depiction of the saints
18 The scene of King Herod’s investigation & a
guard standing
19 The mourning mothers
20 No mosaics left
21 A decorative medallion
22 The meeting of Jesus with the Samaritan
woman at the well
23 The healing of a paralysed person by Jesus
24 King Herod giving the order for the
25
26A
26B
27
28
29
30
massacre of the innocents & the
execution thereof
Remains of mosaics
The healing by Jesus of a young man with
an injured arm
The healing by Jesus of leprous man
Twenty-four of the early ancestors of Jesus
(Genealogy of Christ)
The healing by Jesus of a woman asking for
the restoration of her health
The healing by Jesus of the mother-in-law
of St Peter
The healing by Jesus of a deaf person
255
31 Dispersion of good health by Jesus to the
32
33
35
36
37
38
39
40
41A
41B
42
43
44
45A
45B
46
47
48
49A
49B
50A
50B
50C
æ Frescoes
51 The Anastasis
52 The Church fathers
53 The raising (resurrection of the widow's
son)
54 The healing of the daughter of Jairus
55 The Virgin Elousa
56 The Last Judgement
57 Abraham & the beggar Lazarus on his lap
58 St George
59 Rich man burning in Hell's fire
60 Those entering Heaven & the Angel
Seraphim with the semi-nude good thief
61 Depiction of Andronikus II & his family &
the inscription & depiction above of
Makarios Tornikes & his wife Eugenia
62 The Bearing of the Ark of the Covenant
63 St Demetrius
64 St Theodore Tiro
65 Mary & child Jesus with the 12 attending
angels
66 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
Cosmos
John of Damascene
Theophanes
Joseph
70 St Theodore Stratelates
71 King Solomon & the Israelites
72 Placement into the temple of the Ark of the
Covenant
73 The combat of an angel with the Asurians in
the outskirts of Jerusalem
74 St Procopios, St Sabas Stratelates
75 Moses in the bushes
76 Jacob's ladder & the angels
77 Aaron & his sons carrying votive offerings,
in front of the altar
78 St Samonas & Guiras
KARİYE MUSEUM
34
people
The healing by Jesus of two blind men
The Khalke Jesus & the praying Virgin
Mary and the Baby Jesus surrounded by
her ancestors
Joachim in the mountains praying to have a
child
No mosaics left
The breaking of the good news of the birth
of Jesus to Mary – The Annunciation
The chief priest Zacchariah judging the
Virgin
Mary & Joseph bidding each other farewell
The breaking of the good news of the birth
of Mary to Anne
The meeting of Anne & Joachim
Joseph bringing the Virgin into his house
Mary in the arms of Anne & Joachim & the
blessing by the priests
Giving of the stick with young shoots
indicating Joseph as Mary’s fiancé
The birth of the Virgin Mary
The first seven steps of the Virgin & below,
St Peter
The prayer of the chief priest Zacchariah in
front of the 12 sticks
The presentation of Mary (age three) to the
temple by her parents
The Virgin taking the skeins of wool to
weave the veil for the temple
Theodore Metochites presenting a small
model of the church to Jesus
The feeding of the Virgin by an angel &
below, St Peter
Remains of mosaics – Directives given to
the Virgin at the temple
The Assumption of the Virgin
Mary and the Baby Jesus
Jesus in a standing posture, holding the
Bible in his hand
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