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25 in SAFRANBOLU All the copyrights of this book belong to Bahattin Atak, the author and illustrator. Turkish Patent Institute Trademark Certificate, It was patented with Trademark number: 2008 55483. It cannot be adapted or copied under any circumstances. 2012 third edition We thank the Management of Cultural and Social Affairs of Safranbolu for their support on the creation of this book. Translated by; Nergiz CEYLAN 25 Dear Children, We’ve been living in the most beautiful country of the world and the gorgeus land of this country. In this booklet, you’ll read soon, you’ll observe Safranbolu with all its beauty, which was accepted to be in the list of World Heritage by UNESCO (United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural DİR N İ Organization) in 1994 and which isSone İ İÇ of the best E T İ S protected cities of the world. Among its historical İYE D E houses and streets,ELyou’ll feel as if you were B U and you’ll discover not only travelling to theOLpast B N A also its nature, and see how a city its history Rbut AF S improves and protects itself while living there. We’ve been trying to do the best to protect this heritage we inherited from our elders and doing our best to bequeath it to you-our children, the heritage of our future. I thank Mr. Bahattin Atak, the author, for helping us to inform you - our precious children - about Safranbolu, our beautiful city, and I wish you to have a good time while sighting and learning about Safranbolu. I appreciate you with respect and wish you success in your courses. 25 SAFRANBOLU MUNİCİPALİTY MANAGEMENT Safranbolu-KARABÜK Tel: +90 0 370 712 41 14 Fax: +90 0 370 712 36 42 www.safranbolu.bel.tr 25 Our young traveler Omar has traveled through many provinces, districts and villages sometimes with his father, sometimes with his grandfather. He has written about the places he had visited and seen for his friends who also want to see the beauties of our country. With the help of his father and the other elders, he has prepared many “Young Traveler” books. He was in fifth grade. A few years ago, his teacher had taken them to various places within the scope of “Let’s learn about our Environment” but he wanted to revisit and discover those places with a different view. That day, when he came home from school, after doing his daily homework, he sat in front of the TV. Safranbolu was the subject of the TV program “Let’s travel and view”, this historical district was on screen with all its beauties. Young traveler so enthusiastically İR İND Ç asked his father “Have you ever been to İ Sİ Safranbolu?” when he came home from SİTE E work. Dİ Y E L BE His father, Tahsin Bey, sensed U OL immediately why his A son NB asked about R AF ignoring this, he this. But even Sso, replied him with a question. 25 Küçük Gezgin in in SAFRANBOLU 3 — I was there a few years ago. Why have you asked, Omar? — Hmm. There was a documentary about Safranbolu on TV today. What a wonderful place it is! — So, you wish to take a trip and see there, don’t you? — Oh, what else can I say? My grandfather should have called you “Arif” (which is a Turkish name for men who senses and understands everything immediately) Ha! Ha! Ha! Omar’s intention was remarked by his father at once. He had never danced attendance on his son before. When his father said “So, we’re likely to go to Safranbolu this weekend, aren’t we?”, Omar was very joyful. On Saturday, our travelers were already on the way to Safranbolu. His mother Nilgün, sent them off to Safranbolu with prays. After they departed from Eskişehir, through Ankara and Karabük, they arrived in Safranbolu at the end of a four-hour journey. The expression “World’s Heritage SAFRANBOLU” was almost saying “Welcome” to them. As they were moving further, in the middle refuge, they came across a large model house, representing the Safranbolu Houses. 4 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 Our travelers’ lungs were slowly getting full of the air of Safranbolu. When they came to the entry of the city center, Tahsin Bey mentioned about the three beauties of Safranbolu. — One of the world wide famous three beauties of Safranbolu is The flower Saffron. This plant, which gives its name to the district, is the parent material of yellow dye. It can dye the liquids yellow which weigh one hundrend thousand times more than its own specific gravity. It has been used in food,medicine and cosmetics industries. — So what are the two other beauties? — Safranbolu delight, with coconut, hazelnut, saffron, hard cosistent peanut, rose, and mastic Turkish delights are the most commonly consumed varieties. The greatest remarkable feature of the Safranbolu delight within the others is its softness and not hurting the throat. — Safranbolu Çavuş Grapes is also a different taste of Safranbolu, which are grown in the area. The Çavuş Grapes which are grown in Yazıköy, Safranbolu and often used as table consumption are harvested during the vintage festivals in September every year. Both of them are the great tastes, which have not been traditional anymore thanks to the tourism, and are famous both in Turkey and the world, and are preferred as gifts. Safranbolu is a district of Karabük province which is located in the Western Black Sea Region, 65 kms inland from the sea. It’s only 8 kms away from the center of Karabük. It’s located on a rough area. It covers an area of 1013 sqm, most of which is 25 forestry. Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 5 When our travelers came back to Sadri Artuç Street, they saw the building of Safranbolu Municipality on the left side. Omar never stopped asking questions! — Daddy, are we going to come around the Municipality Building? Do you know the Mayor? — — — — Yes. We met in a seminar. He used to work in Istanbul Municipality. Does he remember you? I hope, he can recognize me. So, will we go empty? I would like to bring a bouquet of flowers to the Mayor. Omar and his father went to the Municipality building with the bouquet of colourful flowers they had bought in a flower shop. As soon as they arrived at the Municipality building, they were welcomed to the mayor’s room by the private chief of the Mayor. The Mayor recognized Tahsin Bey at once. Our young traveler introduced himself and gave the bouquet of roses to Necdet Bey. The Mayor was well pleased with this visit. He wanted to offer something to drink to his visitors. They drank Saffron tea and coffee together. By the way, a deep chat about Safranbolu had already started. 6 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 Young traveler had a chace to ask his first question to the Mayor. He intented to learn more about Safranbolu. — Mr. Mayor, What do you think the reasons could be for the tourists’ would come to Safranbolu? — Good for you, Omar. You asked a reasonable question. The answer is hidden in the question itself but even so, I will mention about it shortly. Cultural and natural heritage are the precious wealth of a country, that are impossible to value, and the most important things that are impossible to replace. Nowadays, all the countries consider the cultural and natural heritage as a common property of the mankind. Safranbolu, the unique example of the Turkish - Ottoman İR Architecture, is a place where all the world has been watching with İND Ç İ Sİ a great admiration. Safranbolu, being in the list of the ten places İTE S of UNESCO, is also the only place which deserves to be inİ Ythat E list D E as a province. L BE Safranbolu was selected to be in “The list O ofLU World Heritage” by B UNESCO in 1994, thanks to its rich cultural AN values and the success R F of protecting it, and afterwards took SA place in the Organisation of the World’s Heritage Cities. (OWHC) 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 7 One must come to Safranbolu to watch the unique beauties from Hıdırlık Hill, Mezarlık Başı and the castle where the old government office was located; and it must be visited because of being the unique city in Turkey, with its nearly 2000 registered houses under protection which are ordered side by side along roads in settlements, unlikely the others cities having only a few seperated houses. One must come to Safranbolu due to the fact that it was chosen to be one of the best protected 20 places within 220 places in the Symposium of the World’s Heritage Cities in Rhode Island in 2003; to sum up, it must absulately be visited to learn the unique features and beauties. Those beauties look as if they were exhibited in an “outdoor air museum” — Where does the name “Safranbolu” come from? — Dear Omar, the name Safranbolu has changed many times through the ages. Its first documentedly known history started in the Byzantine period. Safranbolu, namely Dadybra, was established as a stronghold castle against the Arabian attacks and gained great importance. In 1196, in Seljuk period, its name became Zalifre. In “Principalities Period”, and the earlier times of the Ottomans, its name was known as Borglu and Borlu. As it can be seen in the official registers of the Ottomans, the name Borlu changed to the name Taraklıborlu , due to the fact that the people from Taraklı tribe had settled in that area. 8 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 After the name Taraklıborlu, the other names used for Safranbolu in the Ottoman Period were Zağfiran-ı Borlu in the 18th century, Zağfiran-ı Bendirli for a short time in the early of 19th century, Zağfiranbolu from the the last quarter of the 19th century, and lastly it changed to the name Zafranbolu and Safranbolu. — I don’t want to disturb you more but could you please talk about the history of Safranbolu shortly? — Oh never mind Omar. I’d love to. “It was known as Paplagonya, in Ulysses Epos by Homeros the historian, in Ancient Period in the northwest of Anatolia. Chronically Hittites, Phrygians, Lydians, Persians, Hellenistic Kingdoms, Romans, Seljuks, Çobanoğlulları, Candaroğulları and the Ottomans dominated the area. Safranbolu was captured by the Turks in 1196 in the period of the Seljukian Sultan Muhiddin Mesut Şah whose father was Kılıç Arslan II. It was dominated by Çobanoğulları between 1213 and 1280, by Candaroğulları between 1326-1354 and by the Ottomans from 1423. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 9 By the way, Tahsin Bey inturrupted the conversation. — Dear Necdet Bey, I know you don’t like talking about yourself but could you please mention about what you’re planning to do for our young traveler so as he can get informed? — I don’t want to disturb you with so many details. I can give a few examples of our latest projects. * We, as Safranbolu Municipality, have made a coordinated and compatible project by building up the feeling of unity and integrity. * We adopted our homeless animals thanks to the Center of Rehabilitation and Shelters for Homeless Animals we founded. We provided them a peaceful place. Even on the first day I started my job, we planned to make such a place that would provide homes, shelters, treatment and rehabilitation to the homeless animals, which we shared the life, streets and roads with. Municipalities should serve to the nature and the life itself, and also to the living beings which they share the life with. The level of the civilization is measured not only by the quality of the service to people but also the one to the other living beings. Our center is for 60 animals; primarily treatment for the homeless animals, secondly rehabilitation of them, the treatment for the domestic animals which people feed at home and spaying them will be done in this center. * We’ve started our Natural Gas Engineering Managements so as the air in Safranbolu can be purified and we can breathe fresh air. At this moment, 7500 residents have subscribed to use the Natural Gas. We’ve managed to heat 70% of Safranbolu with Natural Gas. I thank Safranbolu residents for favouring the Natural Gas so much. Our city will be remembered with not only its beauty in summer but also its fresh air in winter. This is thanks to the Safranbolu residents. I thank them so much for being so sensitive to our city. 10 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 * We’ve enabled the women to make traditional handcraft by founding the Culture and Education Center of Safranbolu (SAKEM). Women have been doing handcraft, and producing and marketing traditional products and besides this, they’ve been carrying on different activities in SAM (Safranbolu Family Center). SAKEM 4 includes 4 subunits, and one of them is SAM which deals with the vital problems of the families. The projects of SAKEM enable the old, the disabled and the orphans to survive with physchological support. They have been directed to some needed areas. In this scope, SAKEM visited the old people in the rest home for their blessing prays. The SAKEM staff started an organization for satisfying their needs by taking care of them one by one. In this center, there are courses for artistic mosaic, babysitting at home, vegetable production, cook assistance, ornamental painting, sewing, jewellery design, felt and leather design, wood dyeing, marbling, computering, web design, painting in oil colours, playing the flute, the piano, the guitar, English, Ottoman and Arabian languages. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 11 * We celebrated the twelfth International Golden Saffron Documentary Film Festival with a great enthustiasm and success. In the context of the festival, our children learned how to film a documentary with the support of their masters and in an other festival, they learned how to take photographs and exhibited their works to thousands of people. Besides this, the festival gained a different view with the traditional folk dance shows which the children from sibling cities performed. The theme of our festival was “Water Culture”. In this context, we restored the traditional waterways and fountains in Safranbolu. Again, the subtheme of the festival, we’re going to organize on the 13th time in September this year, has been decided to be “Wood Work and Wood Culture” 12 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 We, as Safranbolu Municipality, would like the youth to involve in parks where sports centers and playgrounds take place by saving them from the computer and internet addiction. We wish them to make permanent friends by feeling each othe by making jokes, even by playing in assertive football matches in the real world not in the virtual world. We developed a project about this idea and built a “City Stadium and Artificial Turf” and served them to use it freely. I’d like to thank Tanju Çolak and Semih Yuvakuran, two of those old national team footballers, for coming to the opening of this stadium. We shouldn’t ignore sports; the investment on sports is one of the most important promotions. Our children have succeeded in Europe. The Turkish children, who played in various teams in Europe, have included in the most important football clubs of the world. One of them Nuri Şahin, one of the players in our national team, has been transferred to Real Madrid FC. He is going to play in the same club with Mesut Özil. This is a very significant opportunity to introduce Turkey and Turkish football. So, our children are able to be the best footballers in the world if they have a chance. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 13 * We’ve cleaned our waterducts annd canyons so as water culture can live in Safranbolu. * We’ve started the compaign “Let the youth go to the pool”. We’ve eliminated the lack of the swimming pools which is a remarkable need in Safranbolu after the opening of the modern swimming pool we’ve built. Our teachers have started to give “Swimming Courses in Summers”. * Safranbolu, grounding on an area where wide valleys are joined up, differs jeologically as well. İncekaya and Tokatlı Canyons, which are located 8 kms far away from the city center, and Gümüş and Akçasu Canyons following them in the city center, and again Düzce (Kirpe) and Sakaralan Canyons, which are located in the entrance of the Düzce village 13 kms far away from Safranbolu, are the natural beauties where all nature lovers should see. The canyons consisting of gorgeous views catch many tourists from closer provinces and abroad, and they certainly reach those natural beauties after the the sightseeing tours. 14Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 They keep walking through the pure clean nature like free birds. And even trekking addicts come to our city in groups and enjoy this nature sport. By the way , Tahsin Bey interrupted him: — Dear Necdet Bey! We thank you for this nice narration. We’d like to keep travelling in Safranbolu with my son Young Traveler. We will leave if it’s OK. — Just one thing… You’re my guest tonight. I’d like to serve you some of the delicious meals of Safranbolu. — If it’s OK for you, Why not? It’s a great pleasure for us. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 15 The sculpture, which was made by Tankut Öktem (a famous sculptor) in 2007, symbolizes the Turkish nation. As we observed, there were all braches of professions at the front and at the back sides. And this sybolizes how hardworking and talented the Turkish people are . It tells about how they get prepared for the future properly when they gain their freedom just after the National Struggle. Tahsin Bey left there with his good wishes. Trip starts Our travelers left the Municipality Building and arrived at the Misak-ı Milli Square which followed the Sadri Artuç Street. They came across a huge Atatürk monument there. Such kind of monuments are the symbols of the civilisation of the cities. Our Young Traveler had already came closer to the monument, and turned around it quickly and started to ask questions to his father immidiately one after one. — Dad! There are many figures on the monument. They must mean something. Do you know what? Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 16 16 Küçük Küçük Gezgin SAFRANBOLU’da 25 They moved on to the “Merkez Park (Central Park)” behind the monument. Merkez Park which changed the overview of Kıranköy center was introduced to our people with a gorgeous opening ceremony. People, having time to rest with rippling water, are interested in this park so much especially at weekends. The number of such parks; where any people at any age can do something fitting themselves, there is a treadmill around, there are atlethic and gymnastic facilities, there are play grounds for kids and volleyball and basketball facilities for teenagers, are increasing in Safranbolu. Even, they named one of those parks “Dr. Miyazaki” from Japan , who had come to help the sufferers of the earthquake in Van and died later. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 17 Life in Three Regions in Safranbolu While the son and the father were taking their trip, Tahsin Bey was informing his son about Safranbolu. — Safranbolu consists of three regions. Those are: Bağlar , which is used summerly, Kıranköy where people have settled intensively, and Çarşı, where mostly historic settlements and traders take place. The Çarşı Region (Old Bazaar) is a kind of habitat for winter as it is warm and protected from the strong winds. The Bağlar Region, at a high place, is open to the air circulations, cool in summer snowy in winter and so it’s a residence for summer. 18 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 Ulu Mospue Our travelers marched to a a historical mosque which used to be a church. The Ulu Mosque. It is an ancient church built in 1872 inherited from the Greeks. The Skalion building (School of Greek) (1863) and the Padre Inn are of this interesting kulliye (social complex) Afterwards, Young traveler and Tahsin Bey were on the Hıdırlık Hill which is the symbol of Safranbolu. They arrived at the hill walking up the narrow, steep way on the left of the city entry. They looked around after a short breath. The beautiful world wide famous historic Safranbolu houses were opposite them as if they were a painting of an artist. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 19 They saw another monument, overviewing Safranbolu, beside the terrace. It was written “Şey-ül Etıbba Dr. Ali Yaver Ataman 18681955” on it. Omar cruiously asked his father. — Dad, do you know who Dr. Ali Yaver Ataman is? — Yes, Ömer. I know he was Caucasian Mücahit Şeyh Şamil’s sister’s son. He was the father of Sadi Yaver Ataman who is a musician, expert of folk dances, educator and an artist. This monument was designed to be the tomb of Dr. Ali Yaver Ataman who was one of the heroes of the Turkish Independence War. May God mercy on him. Footprints of the annals On the top of the grave, it was written “HIDIR BEY has been here, one of the commanders of Gazi Süleyman Pasha who lived in the period of Orhan Gazi, the Ottoman governor. Let you pray for him” Our tavelers kept travelling in Hıdırlık after they’d prayed for Dr. Ali Yaver Ataman, one of the heroes of The Turkish Independence War, and Hıdır Bey, the commander. The father and the son moved on to the tomb of Hasan Pasha. On the epigraph of the tomb, it was written “Everything is mortal but only the glorious God is infinite and sacred.” 20 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 The tomb of Hasan Pasha They could see inside from the long and narrow window because the door was closed. They also prayed for Hasan Pasha. Hasan Pasha, when he was the local governor of Köstentil Sancağı, he was dismissed in 1843. He settled and started to live in Safrabolu till his death. After his death, a tomb was built for him. Let’s keep Safranbolu clean Omar, almost on each corner of the city, recognized bins having Safranbolu Municipality’s logo and symbolizing the historical Safranbolu Houses. Tahsin Bey pointed that Safranbolu Municipality has been very sensitive about city cleanness. — You’re right, my dad. We should never throw rubbish if we want to see places clean. Civilisation depends on environment cleanness, doesn’t it? — Right, Omar. I’m sure, children in Safranbolu agree with you as well. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 21 There was worship area beside the Hasan Pasha tomb. It was a place where the Turks came together when they came to Safranbolu and it’s an open place for worship. People prayed for rain and celebrated Hıdırellez, there. And also, there was an authentic cafe, where visitors can rest and have tea, when they come to Hıdırlık Hill. They went to the cafe to rest and have something to drink. A young girl from Safranbolu welcomed them with her lovely smiling face. She suggested them drinking the famous traditional Saffron Tea. Afterwards, she started to talk about it: — The Saffron Flower grown in Safranbolu is an endemic plant which was the most important spice of the world. It’s a very special plant which is very hard to grow and care as it has fibres on the middle part of it, which of those are used only. So it is precious like gold. It’s necessary to have approximately 150 thousands of saffron plants to obtain 1 kg of dry saffron. Saffron can dye liquids which weigh 100 thousand times more than itself and it’s used in medicine, food and cosmetics. The father and the son relaxed partly after they drank a cup of Saffron Tea. 22 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 Our travelers kept travelling in Safranbolu after they’d left Hıdırlık Hill. They recognized the monument in the shape of a tower while they were going past the Public Cemetery of Safranbolu Municipality. They went inside the cemetery to see the monument closer. They read “These people fought and died for their homeland against terrorism” on the tablet of the block. — Daddy, we’d better not have gone by. If so, I would have never forgiven myself. They sacrifized themselves for us so that we can live in this country freely and peacefully. We must pray for them. After we prayed for them Omar read another thing on the tablet: — “During the First World War, nearly 4000 soldiers from Safranbolu joined the army in 1914. These sons believed that “Çanakkale is unpassable” and wrote an epos with our sons all over Anatolia. Only from Safranbolu, 203 soldiers were killed during the war. This cemetery was built so as to keep them alive forever, with the support of Safranbolu residents, Safranbolu District Governorate and 125 Local Genderme Commandership. Our glorious martyrs; You sacrifized yourselves for our homeland with great enthusiasm. May God rest your souls and have mercy on you. We’ll always remember you in mercy.” 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 23 Safranbolu Plane After they’d left the cemetery of martrys, our tavelers went to see the Safranbolu Plane. The plane was a kind of an open air museum located on a place overviewing Safranbolu. Omar observed the plane carefully turning aroung it. And then, he read the tablet loudly to his father to get information about it: — “Almost 250 planes were produced or bought after the Turkish Independence War, with the financial support of the compaign planned by Hilal Ahmer (Kızılay) and Turkish Plane Assosiation. In this context they could buy a Brequet XIX A-2 discovery plane thanks to the donation of Safranbolu residents. On 30 August 1931, this plane, with its new name “Zafranbolu”, was given as a gift to the Turkish Air Forces because there wasn’t a suitable place for it to land and take off. Our Young Traveler ended his words by reading the famous saying of Atatürk “Future is in the sky!” 24Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 This time our travelers came around the Kaçak Mosque. Lütfiye (Kaçak) Mosque was an attractive construction over the Akçasu Creek in Akçasu District with its eye-catching figures and the waters flowing below it. The flowing creek below for sure, makes it the focus of interest. In the late of 19th century, there was’t an empty place for constructing a mosque, that’s why it was built on the creek. Kaçak Mosque is a part of the integration of buildings consisting a cafe and a school upstairs. Trip in annals starts The father and the son moved on to “The House of District Governors”, which is an extremely historical place, after they’d observed the mosque. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 They saw that The House of District Governors had the characteristics of the other historical houses. The House of District Governors, where you could walk down on a streep path to reach, was restored to be a museum and opened for visits. It was estimated to be constructed in the early 19th century. The owner of it was Hadji Mehmet Efendi who was the commander of Safranbolu Military Post. Hadji Mehmet Efendi was called “Kaim Makam” that meant Lieutenant Colonel; that’s why his house and his family was called with this name as well. The house has three floors. The entry gate has two wings and it is quite big . This wooden door was chipped by big nails. On the outer side of the door, there is a door knocker (locally called şakşak) like a common door bell . People used to knock these doors by tapping on the door and the host used to open the door by pulling the string connected to the door lock. Nowadays, there is a door bell next to the knocker as well. Our travelers stepped inside the door , they entered the ground floor called “Hayat” (a kind of courtyard) When they intented to go upstairs, an attendant warned them to wear galosh on their shoes, they thanked and wore the glosh and went straight upstairs on the railed stairs. They saw symmetrically designed 4 room doors opening to a wide hall named “Selamlık” (a place to greet people) on the first floor . There was a section to sit in front of the window between the two room doors on the right side of the stairs. Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 26 26 Küçük Küçük Gezgin SAFRANBOLU’da 25 Two or three sides of the rooms were covered around with sofas, which were ornamented with ancient Turkish figures mostly in red Those sofas were in front of the window . The cushions to sit back were covered with white lace and handmade cloth. There are white handmade curtains over the windows. On the outer side of the windows, brown shutters save the house from sunshine and rain , and besides this when you look at this house, you say “That’s a classical Safranbolu House” at once. The ceilings were ornamented with the nicest samples of handwork and carving. The other rooms often have the same characteristics. The design and order of the rooms is almost the same. The main difference between them is that while the rooms interstage are for sitting and serving visitors, the rooms upstairs are bedrooms. The baby cradles , the shakedowns and the models in traditional clothes animate the ancient lives symbolically. The very important thing here is that all of the rooms were designed so that a family can sleep, cook and eat and even serve their guests. It was very clear that they were very happy and peaceful as they discovered the traces of the history. 25 Küçük SAFRANBOLU 27 KüçükGezgin Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU’da 27 Our travelers planned to go to İzzet Pasha Mosque after they’d left “The House of the District Governors”. They went through the open bazaar on the way. This bazaar has been serving to the local residents for 400 years at the same place on Saturday. The consumers have been meeting various organic vegetables and fruit here. There have been many children around the gum-like candy seller and they saw them saying “Give it to me, too” They were challenging to catch the colourful gum - like candies. Our Young Traveler joined the children of his age. He, like others, managed to take one of these colourful gum - like candies. While he was eating the delicious gum - like candy in his hand, they had already arrived at İzzet Mehmet Pasha Mosque. İzzet Mehmet Pasha Mosque. City of Canyons 28 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 The mosque, which İzzet Mehmet Pasha got it done in 1796; with its elegant minaret, its dome covered with zinc and its indoor ornaments, was like a small Nuriosmaniye Mosque . Its courtyard and its minaret have located over Akçasu Creep. In this context, Safranbolu is important to its canyons and creeps. This mosque, located on a slanting area; integrating an educational complex with its library, its ablution place, its two fountains and its foundation shops; was constructed with cut stones. Its decoration, its minbar, its altar were very rich and there was the tugra of Sultan Selim III on the altar. İzzet Mehmet Pasha’s grave had been in Manisa before, but it was built in the courtyard of this mosque in 2005. Tahsin Bey shared what he’s known with his son. — İzzet Mehmet Pasha, born in Safranbolu in 1743, was the grand vizier of the Sultan Selim III between 1794 and 1798 but then he was dissmissed and sent to Manisa, and died in Manisa in 1812. İzzet Mehmet Pasha’s grand vizier turban head stone and foot stone had been in Manisa Mevlevi Hospital before, but then they were brought to the courtyard of this mosque with the efforts of Safranbolu’s civil and local governors. Pasha was known for his helpful character and it was written in the historic resources that he’d never hurt someone. He built İncekaya Bridge and brought the water - called “Paşasuyu (Pashawater)”- to the city , and he made the Clock Tower in the castle. 25 Küçük Gezgin in AFRANBOLU 29 The Young Traveler and Tahsin Bey went through the gate towards the Copper Smithery Bazaar after they had observed inside the mosque. They went to some shops selling old and new copper objects and bought a few coffee pots, shallow pans and pitchers. Everywhere in the bazaar, hammers were tuning as they were keeping the rhythm of the most beautiful folk songs of Safranbolu. Here, old and young craftsmen were shaping tens of copper household objects and handling excellent patterns on them. It was possible to sense that they cared their job very much because they never stopped working while Omar was taking photos of them. They have started to do new designs to cherish coppersmithery so that people wouldn’t forget it. They have been patterning the copper how the tourists desire. The main reason for this is that it would be a memorable souvenir; such as a logo of their hometown, a symbol or their beloved kith and kins. Towards the end of the Copper Smithery Bazaar over Akçasu Canyon they went to the Blacksmithery Bazaar at the back of İzzet Pasha Mosque, they recognized that the only living guild was there. There has still been hot or cold blacksmithery there. 30 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 When our travelers came to the entry of the Arasta Bazaar (Leather Shoe Bazaar), they saw that the old houses on the right and left of the road were restored and changed into motels, pubs and restaurants. However, there are a few shoe sellers, where you can do shopping, on the way to the bazaar. It’s normal that these shops would exist out of the bazaar as the area inside is too narrow for so many shops. They passed these shops and went down on the stone stairway on the left, they saw Arasta Bazaar. They immediately saw a cafe as soon as they entered the bazaar which looked as if it were a green tent of vine leaves. It’s possible to taste every kind of Turkish waffles in this place which used to be a coffee house before. There were small and lovely shops, ordered side by side, on both parts of the road. They appeared to be symbolizing intergration. This Shoe Bazaar is an old guild where you can see hand-made pieces of art and hand-made leather shoes made by the last alive shoe maker, and it has 48 small wooded shops where handmade leather shoes are sold; in this old guild they used to make most of the shoes the army needed during the Turkish Independence War. All kinds of cloths, curtains, colourful embroided blouses, bags are ready to buy on the countertops in front of the shops. The tradesmen welcomed customers with a warm smile and answered patiently all the questions about their goods. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 31 There were night lamps in the shape of model Safranbolu houses even with their gardens as well. Omar didn’t forget to buy some of these handmade gifts for both his mother and his friends. Sun Clock When they left the bazaar and went towards the way on the right, they recognized the Sun Clock, which was made in the middle of the 19th century, on the left of the courtyard of Köprülü Mehmet Pasha Mosque. There were long and short lines on the clock like a horizontal fan and there was a small component like a triangle prism in the place where these lines started. It was considered a simple horizontal clock. The clock, on a flat marble on the stone block, shows the time between 6.40 p.m and 17.20 a.m, with the shadow on the metal plate. 32 Küçük Gezgin İn SAFRANBOLU 25 Köprülü Mehmet Pasha lived in Safranbolu for some time and built this mosque and it was opened for worship 1661. You can enter its courtyard through the gate from the bazaar, it also has another gate opening to Arasta Bazaar. The main part of the mosque is square shaped , and it is the biggest mosque of Safranbolu. They left the mosque and came in front of the historical Municipality Building. It’s been used as a workplace for the Management of Cultural and Social Affairs of Safranbolu Municipality at the moment. When they met the related manager, he gave some leaflets and books about Safranbolu to our travelers as a gift; —The Management of Cultural and Social Affairs is the artery of our municipality. We’ve been welcoming our visitors, sightseeing with them and introducing Safranbolu to them, and besides this, we’ve been sharing our citizens’ problems and happiness by meeting each of them in the context of Social Municipality. Here, in this building, we’ve been carrying out BAKAB (Western Black Sea Development Assosiation) and OWHC’s (Organization of the world’s heritage Cities) Eurasian Safranbolu Sekretariats of our festival. We’ve been preparing acitivities, festivals and charities, and books, leaflets and catalogs that are the mainly necessary to introduce our Safranbolu, and we’ve been giving them to our visitors who come to visit our city. We consider ourselves as a window from Safranbolu to both domestic and abroad. If you want to contact us from anywhere in the world, our numbers are: +90 370 725 52 65 +90 370 725 52 52 Our e-mail address is: [email protected] Our travelers drank tea thanked the manager of Cultural Affairs and left there. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 33 This time , they were at the Cinci Han (Demoniac Inn). They went to the courtyard of the inn through the copper gate on which it was written “Cinci Han”. It was designed to be a hotel and a restaurant. — Why is it called “Cinci Han”, dad? — Dear Omar, Cinci Han was built by Karabaşzade Hüseyin Efendi (Demoniac Hodja) from Safranbolu in 1645, that’s why it had this name. Cinci Han was one of the hundreds of inns in various sizes founded on historical Silk Road, which lied along from China to Anatolia for centuries. Its architect isn’t known surely but however it is thought to be Architect Kasım Ağa, one of the main architects of his time. Cinci Han has served to the city in different aspects for the beginning of the 21th century. — So, who was Demoniac Hodja? — Karabaşzade Hüseyin Efendi, namely Demoniac Hodja, was famous for that he treated Sultan İbrahim I, the Ottoman Sultan who was mentally deranged, in 17th century. Karabaşzade Hüseyin Efendi was born in Safranbolu. He was invited to the palace to treat Sultan İbrahim I by Kösem Sultan in 1642. As he succeeded in his treatment, he not only had a great fame and fortune but also had a say in governmental affairs. However, he built Cinci Hammam (Turkish bath) which his name was given to. It’s been thought to be the architect Kasım, one of the most important architects of his time, built it. Our travelers happened on a wide square when they left Cinci Han. 34 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 They learned its name was Kazdağlıoğlu Square and saw the mosque having the same name. This splendid and magnificent mosque was over there in the square. Omar ran closer to the mosque. He started to observe around with a great interest and then turned back to his dad with his questioning eyes to get information about the construction. — Dad, what do you know about this magnificent masterpiece? — As far as I know , it was built by Kazdağlıoğlu Mehmet Agha, in 1778. The mosque having one dome, made of stones and bricks, was covered with tiles on the roof. Its minaret was made of bricks. It was turned to the Library of Handwriting between 1979 and 1989, and then in 1989 it was opened for worship. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 35 Our travelers went to the City History Museum which used to be the Government House this time. Here, it’s possible to see and watch the choronological flow and cultural aspects of Safranbolu. The ancient Government House was built on the hill called “castle” in two years (between 1904 and 1906), thanks to the financial support of Safranbolu residents by Enis Pasha, governor of Kastamonu, and Ahmet Bey, the district governor. 36 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 The building, completely made of cut stones, consists of 800 sqm closed area and a cellar. It used to function as a military, civil and judicial administration center in the past. It caught on fire on its roof and burned on 19 January 1976. Different Annals on each floor The museum consists of three floors; ground floor, entrance and the first floor The father and the son took a trip in the ancient Safranbolu Bazaar and watched the choronological stages of Safranbolu so far and saw its lifestyle and the culture. At the entrance; They learnt about the history of Safranbolu and the building itself, and saw the maps, the cultural publishments, the satellite displays, the exhibition hall and the conference hall. On the first floor; The clothes of Republican Period and the endemic old clothes of Safranbolu were exhibited. In the hall of “Safranbolu with photographs”, they saw that the history of Safranbolu from the Ottoman Period to the Republican Period, the visual details, the Roman Period, the coins of the Ottomans and the Republican Period and ancient handwritten pieces were exhibited. On the ground floor; They read in photographs about trading and traditional handcraft in Safranbolu. However; in the Tradesmen and Craftsmen Bazaar, they saw the museum of Pharmacy, the museum of Turkish delight and the workplaces of some important branches of trades in Safranbolu such as shoe-sellers, spice-sellers, saddle-sellers, blacksmiths, tinsmiths, coppersmiths and the coffee house of the tradesmen, which were designed with a Special Animation Technique. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 37 They saw the model lectern just opposite themselves. Omar impatiently read the epigraph on the book-like plate, of which pages were turned. — World Heritage Commitee has counted “City of Safranbolu” in the List of World Heritage. The inscription on this list confirms the worth of a cultural or a natural area where should be protected for the use of humanity. The inscription date, 17 December 1994 – UNESCO — I suppose you’ve realized what it says here, Omar? — Absulately, dad; that’s why I’m called Young Traveler. Being in the World Heritage sequence is a great honour for us, isn’t it? — You’re right, my son. Nearly 1500 of 50.000 Cultural and Natural Property in Turkey, which needs protecting, is in Safranbolu. However, the Ministry of Culture started to protect Safranbolu as “a urban site area” on 08-10-976. After leaving the museum, our travelers went straight to the area at the back of museum. Here, they learned that in 2000, the Ministery of Culture and Tourism started to restore the Government House and the buildings around and the task was completed in 2006. The Clock Tower and the Prison in this area are considered to be the other important historical structures. In the city where the time stopped, The Clock Tower, which announced the sound of the past, was built on an area called “Castle” in 1797 by İzzet Mehmet Pasha, from Safranbolu the grand vizier, who said “I will present a clock to everybody to put at home and in his pocket”. The clock of the square-like tower has still been working. 38 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 Süha Arın Culture and Art Center Tahsin Bey took his son to Süha Arın Culture and Art Center. Süha Arın filmed “Safranbolu’da Zaman (Time in Safranbolu)” documentary in 1976, like his other films, with a group of his students full of enthusiasm and excitement , when he was a lecturer in High School of Press and Publication (namely Communication Faculty) of Faculty of Politician Sciences, Ankara University. His film “Time in Safranbolu” was worth to be “The Best Documentary” and awarded by the Golden Orange in Antalya Film Festival in 1977. Süha Arın died in 2004. Our travelers had the chance to see his camera, his office, his private belongings and his awards. Our travelers were looking forward to see the “İncekaya Aqueduct”. They reached there after 8 km. They stared at the magnificent aqueduct. Tahsin Bey informed his son: — This aqueduct is one of the works that İzzet Mehmet Pasha , the grand vizier, built in this city. It, having an architectural value, is known to be built between 1798. Water, through the water gauge that was in the yard of Havuzlu Asmazlar Mansion in Beybağı Location, used to be distributed from here to the fountains in the city by means of closed runnels and water cannals. İncekaya Aqueduct 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 39 After spending some time near the aqueduct our travelers went to the historical Nomad Village – like a small model of Safranbolu - which was closer to the aqueduct. It’s possible to reach the village if you go 11 km further towards Kastamonu from Safranbolu. This village, founded by Hüseyin – the eldest of the three brothers from Karakeçili tribe of Kayı Clan which founded the Ottomans –, has been protected by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism since 1997 as it is a true village of Turks and Nomads. The houses, in the museum-like village of 131 historical structures to be protected, range along the street unlikely the grouping houses in Anatolia. The village, with its mosque, its laundry and and its houses - which were changed to museums later – improves the tourism in Safranbolu. 40 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 Bulak Cave It was getting darker and the sun was about to set in an hour. Tahsin Bey wanted to take Omar to Bulak Cave, which was the last stop of their trip, in the rest of their time. Bulak Cave, an undersoil world wonder, was 8 kms away from Safranbolu. The cave, of which the total length is 6042 m, has three floors. In the main gallery, there is an undersoil river. Bulak Cave, which is very rich for its stalactites, stalagmites, columns, and wall stalactites, used to be used by people as a place for protection in the 12th century. Only 400 m. of the cave is allowed to visit. The landscape is fascinating. Mother nature has left the mankind little to dream. If you go ahead, you can see a waterfall and two lakes. The river, going underneath the soil and going upwards through the rocks, was flowing inside the cave. Omar and his father couldn’t help admiring this miracle. Our Young Traveler realized that there were 160 stairs up to the entrance of the cave. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 41 Our travelers steered to the city center to participate in the dinner with Mr. Necdet Aksoy, the Mayor of Safranbolu. They were satisfied with the natural beauties of Safranbolu on the way to the city center. — Dad, can you see that how generous the nature is around here? — You’re right. The plateaus, rivers , waterfalls and archeological features are at least as this important as its historical beauties. Its natural features improve the tourism in the district. Uluyayla is 50 km and Sarıçiçek is 8 km away from the city center. On the other hand, Kirkille Pinery and Gürleyik Sylvan Recreation Area are important picnic areas. Its archeological areas are Hacılarobası, Çavuşlar, Üçbölük; there are many rock-cut tombs in Akören and Aşağı Güney Villages and there are also timuli in the city center and nearby as well. 42 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 The father and son couldn’t realize how the journey ended. They went straight ahead to the Municipality Building. The Mayor took them to Cinci Han (Demoniac Inn) to offer them some of the delicious meals of Safranbolu. Everything was ready on the table. Layered pastry (pastry with cheese & parsley filling, of which dough is boiled in water before baking in the oven) baklava (a traditional diamond shaped Turkish dessert – multilayered flaky pastry with walnuts or pistachios), zerde (a sweet, gelatinous dessert that has been colored and flavored with saffron), pastry with walnuts (boiled pastry with minced meat and tomato paste) , buttered long green beans, okra with beef and unripe grapes, yahni (undivided stewed meat), halushka (Turkish ravioli with butter and tomato sauce), Safranbolu bükme (oven cooked filo pastry with spinach and minced meat filling), perohi (boiled filo pastry with mint and yoghurt), Kuyu kebab (wells kebab –undivided meat grilled in the well) Our travelers were starving because they just had some snacks all day. They started to eat the delicious meals. After a short silence, Mr. Mayor asked Omar: — Omar, do you like Safranbolu? — Absulately! I wish we had more time and we could stay here longer. — Whenever you want , we can host you again. — Errrrrrr….. If it’s OK for you, could you please continue your narration you started in the Municipality, Mr. Mayor? 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 43 * We, as Safranbolu Municipality, care about our children because we suppose them to be the founders of the future. We always want to be together with them. We take our elementary school pupils to scouts camps this year as well to make them learn things that they can benefit during their lives. On one hand, today’s modern technology facilitates many things to individulas; on the other hand, it fairly restricts mental and physical activities. For this reason, we’ve been conducting outdoor activities; where we provide education based on active learning approach to avoid all kinds of violence at school, out of school, at home and at work; so as to contribute our children’s physical, psychological, mental and social development, to educate them as a citizen; who respects for his national and moral values, loves his homeland and nation, patterns the Turkish elders, and also who is honest, clean, neat, self-confident, disciplined, who spends his time on useful and enjoyable activities. The fields of education in the camp are; Basic and Advanced Scouting, Archery, Personal Development, Memory Techniques, Search & Rescue – Transceiver and Communication, First Aid, Traffic, Environment and Forest, Fire-fighting & Fire, Art, Music, Theatre, Swimming, Cycling, Horse-riding, Pentathlon, Badminton, Wall bars, Fishing, Canoeing and Rowing, Animal Care, Marbling, Making model planes, Fencing and Paintball. 44 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 We founded a “Knowledge House” within SAKEM in Aslanlar District in Safranbolu. We intented to maintain equal opportunities for all people. The disadvantageous groups of people, who can’t attend to the private couses, started to have additional training there. At the moment 270 students have been studying in 8 different classes on weekdays and at the weekends. They have been carrying out the studies of Association of Training Volunteers. Furthermore, we led something new for the first time in Safranbolu. We founded an Asphalt Plant and we accelerated our asphalt work in our city. We’ve never stopped modernization of the crossroad designs in our conducted work and we took many details into consideration on the works of art and pavements. Our disabled citizens could meet the opportunity to experience a comfortable ride in winters thanks to the completion of the roads designed appropriately for themselves. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 45 *Within the “sister city” agreements between municipalities, which have recently been growing in importance in the world, based on the economical, cultural and social coorperation, distances have been closer. These “sister city” projects have gained more importance particularly in the last 20 years. We , as Safranbolu Municipality, have been sister cities with Alabuga (Tatarstan), Skydra (Greece) and lastly in 2011 Ohri (Macedonia). This sister city agreeement is not just on the paper, we regularly keep in touch with our sister cities in the activities that we organize every year. We hosted the Culture Manager and the councillor of Ohri Municipality of Macedonia, and a short time ago we showed hospitality to our three sister cities in our city within the Golden Saffron Documentary Film Festival. These days, we’ve been contacting with Nesabar from Bulgaria to make a sister city agreement. Furthermore, we’ve still been negotiating with Germany and Netherlands in the scope of sister city project. In this process , we’ve been offered to be sister cities with Asian countries and the Arabian Peninsula. We, as Safranbolu Municipality, organized 30 day- long activities during Ramadan firstly in 2011. 46 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 The National Pack Square, where citizens flew after iftar (the time when the muslims end fasting) every night, was full of people. Our residents had the chance to watch the favourite singers of Turkey closer and enjoyed and enthused with them. The activities lasted till 12 at night and the people didn’t want to leave the square. We laid colourful closed stalls in the square. Our artisans of different sectors had the chance to put up their goods for sale. On these stalls, there were various goods such as Lokma (yeast dough fried in hot oil and put in sherbet), Ottoman gum -like candy, cotton candy, popcorn, icecream, tea, book fair, the procts of SAKEM, Turkish delight with saffron and cologne with saffron, rose water products and bijouterie. We experienced something new again in Safranbolu. The Eurasian Circus, the first international circus of Turkey, performed for 3 days in May 2011 in the scope of our municipality’s cultural activities. Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 47 At the Eurasian Circus, tightrope walkers, aerialists, acrobats, fire shows, high air shows, clowns, magicians, huge pyhtons and the shows performed by worldfamous circus artists were applauded by the audience for minutes. We provided all the disabled people in Karabük and Safranbolu city center, martyrs’ family members, our war veterans, all the parish residing in Child Protection Agency, and the nursing home residents to be hosted in the Eurasian Circus and to watch the shows for free. We had the chance to perform a theatre play for our children in Safranbolu. We organized a professional theatre play particularly for the children who have been studying in schools which are in the areas deprived of social activities. The theatre play was for the first and second graders. The little pupils watched the play “Pinocchio” with a great interest and admiration. They demanded to see more activities like this. We, surely, can’t be insensitive to their demands so we’ve been organizing activities for our children. We’ve been offering our children the juveniles which we prepare and update every year. 48 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 The pupils of elementary schools all over Karabük are taken for a walk in our city by the guides of our Management of Cultural and Social Affairs every year. This sightseeing tour starts in Hıdırlık Hill after presenting them our “Young Traveler in Safranbolu” booklets promoting Safranbolu, and serving them Safranbolu bagels and Bağlar soda pop. The historical places mentioned in Young Traveler’s booklet are visited respectively and they are informed by the guides. Afterwards, they visit Mr. Necdet Aksoy, the Mayor of Safranbolu. After being served some beverages and tea here, they say goodbye to our city with their unforgettable memories they have experienced during the day. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 49 50 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 25 — Mr, Mayor, you talked about the canyons of Safranbolu while we were chatting in the Municipality building. Could you please elaborate this topic? — Good for you, Omar. You’ve learnt what I told you at once. Canyons, for us, are as important as the other cultural values of Safranbolu as well. We gave a start to a special task particularly in İncekaya and Tokatlı Canyons. We made a hiking trail in this natural paradise 8 km away from the city. We arranged there properly so that our visitors walking on this hiking trail can complete the way easily. We built special wooden stairs to go downwards the canyon from the area underneath İncekaya Aqueduct. We constituted small waterfalls, bridges and ponds along the hiking trail. The nature hikers can come across the historical bridges in the canyon. 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 51 * Mankind, inherently, has always desired to fly freely over the sky like a bird. We often sit on window-seats in planes and dream as if we were flying like a bird. Here, we had a chance to satisfy our “passion to fly” like Hezarfen Çelebi. We observed microlight gliding (flights with very light gliders) that are the latest interest of flight lovers. We arranged some flights in summers within our Municipality’s financial support to a private microlight gliding company. We participated in one of those flights that have been drawing great attention of the domestic and foreign tourists. This time, we were delighted to see Safranbolu panoramically, where we’ve travelled below so far and fallen in love. 52 Küçük Gezgini in SAFRANBOLU 25 * During the year, we, as Safranbolu Municipality, participated in many fairs. The last one was EMITT Fair in February. We laid a stall in EMITT Fair (International Eastern Mediterranean Tourism and Travel Fair), where stalls of each city take place , to promote our city as BAKAB this year too. During the fair, our stall caught great attention. SAKEM ( Safranbolu Culture and Training Center) exhibited its own products and promoted traditional products of Safranbolu. While our leather shoe maker was demostrating shoe making , another artisan attracted great attention with his dolls made of socks. We were the focus of interest with the traditional clothes of Safranbolu and Ottoman gum-like candy. Many national TV channels , primarily TRT , gave detailed information on live broadcast. Our travelers didn’t want to disturb Mr. Mayor more. They thanked very much for his narration and hospitality and wished him continued success. They stayed in Sefa Mansion that night as well. THE END 25 Küçük Gezgin in SAFRANBOLU 53 World Heritage City of Museums Tablo: Rıza KORKMAZ 25 * * * * * * The Hıdırlık Hill The Nomad Village The Museum Houses The Arasta Bazaar Blacksmithery and Coppersmithery Bazaars The Museum of the City History (the Ancient Government House) * İncekaya Aqueduct * Bulak (Mencilis) Cave * Without staying at historical houses * Without eating Safranbolu zerde, Safranbolu bükme, Safranbolu baklava, perohi and of course Safranbolu delight * Without offering Turkish coffee at Havuzlu Mansion DO NOT SEND YOUR VISITORS OFF, WITHOUT VISITING; 25 Küçük Gezgin Safranbolu’da 25
Benzer belgeler
CULTURAL and NATURAL HERITAGE of
Its first documentedly known history started in
the Byzantine period. Safranbolu, namely Dadybra,
was established as a stronghold castle against the
Arabian attacks and gained great importance.
In ...