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Textile Design Education I n The U.K. With Specific Reference To The University Of Leeds G.M.THOMSON Michael A. RANN Dept of T d e Eng. University of Leeds ENGLAND A short account of the textile design education in the U.& isgiven in this aih'cle and various courses availabIe at Leeds University are erplained with theprincipal aims and ideas on which they are based 1.INTRODUCTION From as far back in time as history can r e d , fibres have been worked into yarns and fabrics and finally moulded into garments. The techniques associated with this manufacture were initially practised on a domestic basis nntil the onset of the Industrial Revolution which paved the way for the establishment of a factory based system of production. This developmentled to an increased demand for abetter educated and trained workforce. By the end of the nineteenth century, thorough the foundation of the City and Guilds of London Institute, a wide spectrum oftechnical courseswas available, designed to cater for the educational needs of the U.K textile and clothingindustries. However, there was not just a necessity to provide courses aimed at solving technical and production problems. Consumer demand for a variety in product design acted as a potent force to encourage the education of individuals with an awareness of the eastheties of textile fabrics. This educational need was met, at least in part, by the estabilshment of courses in Colleges of Art and a small number of Universities. 2. COURSES AVAILABLE The U.K. Department of Education and Science made a significant contribution through the introduction of National Certificates and Diplomas which were ultimately superseded by the Business and Technical Edueation Council (B.TEC) Certificates and Diplomas. In addition to preparing the individual to copewith the ri- gours of modem industry, these qualifications provide the opportunityfor entry to higher study and are recognised as appropriate qualificationsfor admission to more advanced courses in Polytechnics and Universities. B.TEC National Certif~cate/Diplomacourses are available in centres throughout the U.K.Where appropriate, the requirements for the award of B.TEC, qualifications may be ful6lled through full-time, day-relese and evening, block-release or sandwich modes of study. It shouldbe notedthat admission to B.TEC courses in textile design is generally dependent on candidates presenting a comprehensiveportfolio of artwork at interview. The Council for National Academic Awards (CNAA) have validated a number of courses leading to B.A. or B.Sc. Degrees in Textile Design. Whilst direct entry applications may at least be considered by most colleges offering such courses, successful application is generally after the completion of a pre-degree foundation year a t a recognised centre for art and design education. The Textile Institute, which was founded in 1910 to promote closer liaison between scientific and technical workers, represents an educational platform based on courses such as that of Associate of the Textile Institute (A.T.I.), a qualification which confers on the holder the status of a professionally qualified textile technologist or designer. A number of undergraduate and postgraduate degree courses are currently available a t both Polytechnics and Universities, these include the Scottish College of Textiles at Galashiels, Hudderdield, Leicester and Trent Polytechnics, the University of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology and the Universty of Leeds. A further examination of the courses offered by the University of Leeds is presented below. 3.TEXTILE EDUCATION ATTHE UNIVERSITY OF LEEDS The University of Leeds Department of Textile Industries was founded over a century ago as a centre for textile education. Today the department is the largest of its kind in the U.K. and continues to retain its poaition as one of the premier international centres for teachingand research in awide spectrum of textile activities. Employing stafffarm a wide range of disciplines, the department's teaching and research interests extend through polymer synthesis, wool chemistry, dyeing and finishing, electron microscopy, machine development, yarn and fabric production, industrial textiles, theoretical studies of yarn and fabric structure, computer aided design, pattern and colour in textiles, fashion theory, economic and strategic problems of the Leeds Universitesi ile 0zel ili91rili Olarak ingiltere'de Tekstil Tasarrm Egitimi Giing6r BASER Prof.Dr. Ege Uni.Muhendislik Fak.Tekstil Muh.Bo1.iZMiR Bu yazlda, Ingiltere'deki tekstil tasanm egitiminin ktsa bir anlatlmt yap~lmaktaue Leeds Uniuersitesi'nce sunulan fegitli pmgramlar, dayand~klarrbagllca amafuegcirz2glerle birlikte apklanmaktadlr. l . ~ i ~ i ~ Tarihingeriye d o w gittigi en es- ki zamanlardan bu yana lifler iplik ve kumaga donugturiilmekte ve son agamada giysi bicimine dokiilmektedir. Bu yaplm bicimi ile ilgili teknikler fabrikaya dayall uretim sisteminin kumlmaslna y o l a w endustri devriminin b a g l a n ~ a n akadar ev temelinde uygulanm~ghr.Bu geligme daha iyi ogrenim gormug ve egitilmig iggiicune olan gittikce artan bir isteme yo1 acm~ghr. Ondokuzuncu yiizyll sonunda, Londra Sehir ve Belediye Enstitiisu'nun (City and Guilds of London Institute) kumlmas~yoluylaingi~tere'detekstilve h a z ~giyim r endustrilerinin egitsel gereksinimlerini kar$llama amac~ylatasarlanm~ggenig spektmmlu teknik progmmlar saglanm~@r. Bununla birlikte, yalnlzca teknik veuretimle ilgili problemleri ciizmeyi hedefleyen kurlar saglamaya gereksinim yoktu. Uriin tasanm~nda cegitlilige yonelik tuketici istemi, kigilerin k u m q estetig bilinci ile e g timini ozendiren giiclu bir kuwet olarak etki yapmlgtlr. Bu egitim ger e k s i ~ m ilusmen , de olsa sanat kolejlerinde ve az sayda u ~ v e r s i t e d e baz~programlanna~llmaslylakargllanm@r. 2.MEVCUT PROGRAMLAR ingiltere Egitim ve Bilim BakanI@, sonunda IS ve Teknik Egitim Konseyi Sel-tifikalan (B.TEC) ve Diplomalanna yerini b~rakanUlusal Sertifika ve Diplomalanru ortaya clkarmas~ile onemli bir katluda bulunmu$ur. Kigiyi modern endustrinin giigliikleri ile b q edebilmeye haz~rlamayan~nda,bu kalifikasyonlar daha yiiksek bir ogrenim firsah saglarlar ve Politeknik ve ~niversitelerdekidaha ileri programlara kabul edilmeye yeterli kalifikasyonlar olarak tarunlrlar. B.TEC Ulusal Sertifika/Diploma programlan Ingiltere'nin tiim merkezlerindebulunabilir. Uygun [email protected] kalifikasyonlannm elde edilmesi icin gereken gartlar tam giin, giinliik izinli ve akgam, blok izinli ya da sandoviq ogrenim bigimleri ile yerine getirilebilir. Tekstil tasanm~ndaB.TEC programlanna girig izninin genellikle adayn on gorugme s ~ r a s ~ n dsanat a &qmalann~nkapsaml~ birdosyaslnl sunmaslna bag11oldu@ hatlrlanmal~d~r. Ulusal Akademik Unvanlar Konseyi (CNAA) Tekstil Tasanmmda B.A veya BSc. lisans diplomalama yonelikbirdiziprograml onaylam~gbr. Bu tiir programlar sunan kolejlerin c o b tarafindan dobudan yapllan b w r u l a r dikkate ahnabilmekle birlikte, bagan11 bir bagvum genellikle tanmmq bir sanat ve tasanm egitim merkezindeki bir onlisans hazlrllk y111n1ntamamlanmasmdan sonra olmaktad~r. 1910'da bilimsel ve teknik Fallganlar aras~ndadaha yalun baglar olugturmak icin kurulan Tekstil Enstitiisu, Associate of TextileInstitute (Tekstil Enstitiisu Diplomas1 A.T.I.)gibi, sahibineprofesyoncl nitelikli tekstil teknolojisti veya statusu saglayan bir kalifikasyona yone- lik programlara dayall egtsel bir platformu temsil etmektedir. Politeknik ve universitelerde gu anda bircok lisans ve lisans iistii program bulunmaktadm. Bunlar, Galashiels'deki iskocya Tekstil Koleji, Huddersfield, Leicester ve Trent Politeknikleri, Manchester ijniversitesi Bilim ve Teknoloji Enstitiisu ve Leeds ~niversitesidir, AgaDda Leeds Universitesi'nce sunulan progmmlann bir incelemesi verilmektedir. Leeds Universitesi Tekstil Endiistrileri Bolumu yiizy111 geeen bir sure once bir tekstil egtim merkezi olarak kumlmu$u. Bugiin boliim Ingiltere'deki benzerlerinin en biiyiigiidur ve tekstil etkinliklerinin genig bir spektummu icinde egitim ve a r q h r m a yapan uluslararas~ merkezler icinde en onde gelenlerden olma konumunu korumaya devam etmektedir. Cokgeni~ bir disiplinler serisinden gelen bir kadroyu tutan bolumun ogretim ve a r q h r ma konulan, polimer sentezinden, yiin kimyasma, boyama ve bitirme iglemine, elektron mikroskobu, makina geli$irme, iplikve k u m q uretiminden, endustriyel tekstiller, iplikvekumqyap~s~n~nteorekincelemelerine, bilgisayar destekli tasanm, tekstillerde desen ve re& moda teorisi, tekstilin ekonomik ve stratejik problemlerine, h a z ~ rgiyim ve hazlr eSya endustrileri, ev I$1 etkinlikler icin giysi ve donanun, tekstil ve giysi uretiminde mikroiglemci uygulamalanna kadar uzanmaktadlr. Bu genig alanayaylan etkinlik olr$isu dikkate allnd@nda, 193
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