A B C D E ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

A B C D E ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
222
See also separate subindexes for:
P221
5EATING P000
DRINKING
& NIGHTLIFE P000
P222
6
6
P223
3ENTERTAINMENT P000
P000
7 SHOPPING P223
SPORTS & P000
ACTIVITIES P223
4SLEEPING
2
4SLEEPING P223
Index
A
accommodation 15, 165-73,
see also Sleeping
subindex
language 208-12
activities 21-2, see also
Activities subindex
Ahmed Afif Paşa Yalı 155
Akbank Art Centre 121
Akbank Jazz Festival 22
Akbank Short Film
Festival 21
Akbil system 199
AKP (Adalet ve Kalkınma
Partisi) 185
Alexander Sarcophagus 67
ambulance 203
Anadolu Hisarı 154
Anadolu Kavağı Kalesi 158
Aqueduct of Valens 93
Arab Mosque 117
Arasta Bazaar 80
Archaeology Museum
66-7, 74
architecture 19, 84, 147, 177,
186-91
area codes 206
Armenian population 184
Arnavutköy 153
art galleries 18, 25
Akbank Art Centre 121
Depo 118
İstanbul Modern 23, 116
SALT Beyoğlu 120
SALT Galata 117
ARTER 120
Atatürk 184
Atik Valide Mosque 148
ATMs 205
Aya İrini 71
Sights 000
Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
Aya Sofya 7, 46-52, 7-8,
48-9
Aya Sofya Tombs 69
Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan
Hamamı 13, 81-2
Ayazma Mosque 148
B
Balık Pazarı 120
bargaining 35-6
basics 14-15
Basilica Cistern 10, 23, 68,
10, 187
bathhouses, see hamams
Bazaar District 42-3, 83-101,
234-5
drinking & nightlife 84,
97-8
food 84, 94-7
highlights 83, 84
shopping 99-101
sights 85-92
transport 84
Bebek Mosque 153
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy &
Kuruçeşme 139-45,
242-3
accommodation 167, 173
drinking & nightlife
140, 144
food 140, 143
highlights 139
shopping 145
sights 141-3
sports & activities 145
transport 140
Beyazıt Meydanı 91
Beyazıt Mosque 91-2
Beylerbeyi Palace 152
Beyoğlu 43, 113-38, 23641, 11
activities 138
accommodation 167, 171-3
drinking & nightlife 114,
131-4
entertainment 135-8
food 114, 124
highlights 113
shopping 136-7
sights 115-24
transport 114
walks 128
Blue Mosque 64-5, 12,
64, 189
boat travel 150-64, 200,
201
books 192-3
Bosphorus Bridge 152
Bosphorus, the 9, 151-8,
156-7
budgeting 14-15
museum passes 13
buses 200
business hours 27, 32,
39, 203
Büyük Göksu Deresi 153
Büyükada 163-4
Byzantine architecture 186-7
Byzantine history 19
Byzantium 178-9
C
cable-cars 202
cashpoints 205
carpets 34, 37
cell phones 14, 206
Çemberlitaş 91
children, travel with 23
Chora Church 10, 104-6,
11, 104
Christ Church 118
Church of St Mary of the
Mongols 107
Church of St Stephen of
the Bulgars 109
Church of the Holy Saviour
Outside the Walls 104-6
Çiçek Pasajı 120
Cihangir 131, 134-5, 138
cinema 195
Çinili Mosque 148
Çırağan Palace 142
circumcision rituals 109
climate 15, 21-2
Constantine 179
Constantinople 179-82
costs 14, 25, 27, 166, 205
courses
cooking 23, 29-30, 82, 124
Turkish coffee 13, 82
credit cards 205
Crimean Memorial Church
118
Crimean War 183
cruise ships 200
Çukurcuma 131, 134-5,
138
culture 24, 26-30, 39, 176-7
currency 14
customs regulations 203
D
dangers 205-6
Darius, Emporer 178
Depo 118
disabilities, travellers with
206
discount cards 13, 69
Dolmabahçe Palace 141, 188
dolmuşes 202
drinking & nightlife 27,
31-3
E
eating 26-30, see also
Eating subindex
Efes Pilsen Blues Festival
22
Efes Pilsen One Love 22
Egyptian consulate
building 153
electricity 203
emergencies 203
Eminönü 73-6, 78-9, 80
22 3
F
Fatih Bridge 155
Fatih Mosque 107-8
Fener 161
ferry travel 19, 23, 150-64,
200, 201
festivals 21-2
film 195
fire department 203
food 26-30
costs 27
language 208-12
tours 13, 93, 124, 149
football 144
free attractions 25
funiculars 202
G
Galata
drinking & nightlife 131-2
entertainment 135
food 124-6
shopping 136-7
sights 117-18
Galata Bridge 91
Galata Mevlevi Museum
13, 118
Galata Tower 118, 122
Galerı Apel 121
Galerı Nev 120
Galerist 120
gardens 20
gay travellers 32, 203
Gâzi İskender
Paşa Mosque 155
Golden Horn, the 159-61
Grand Bazaar 85-7, 3, 8,
34, 85, 87
Grand Rue de Pera 115
Great Palace Mosaic
Museum 69-70
Great Palace of Byzantium
72
Greek Lycée of the Fener
161
Greek Orthodox 25, 108,
161
Greek Orthodox Monastery
of St George 163
Gül Mosque 109
Gülhane 73-6, 78, 80
Gülhane Park 23, 25, 73
J
Jewish Museum of Turkey
117
Justinian the Great 179,
180, 181
K
H
Haghia Triada Monastery
162
Haliç 159-60
hamams 38-9, 81, 82, 101,
138, 145
etiquette 39
Hatice Sultan Yalı 152
health 204
Heraclius I 181
Heybeliada (Halki) 162-3
Hıdiv Kasrı 25, 153
hippies 73
Hippodrome 23, 25, 70-1,
179
history 178-85
holidays 205
homosexuality 32
I
International İstanbul Film
Festival 21
internet access 204
İshak Ağa Çeşmesi 155
Istanbul Archaeology
Museums 66-7
İstanbul Biennial 22
İstanbul Design Biennial
22
İstanbul Jazz Festival 22
İstanbul Modern 23, 116,
190
İstanbul Museum of the
History of Science &
Technology in Islam 76
İstanbul Music Festival 21
İstanbul Tulip Festival 21
İstanbulkart 199
İstiklal
drinking & nightlife
132-4
entertainment 135-6
food 126-7
shopping 137-8
sights 118-21
İstiklal Caddesi 115, 191
İstinye 155
itineraries 16-17
Kabataş 162
Kadıköy 149
Kandilli 153
Kanlıca 155
Kapalı Çarşı 85-7, 3, 8, 34,
74, 85, 87
Karaköy 117-19, 124-6
Kariye Museum 104-6,
11, 104
Kasa Galeri 117
kebaps 79
kilims, see carpets
Kıbrıslı (‘Cypriot’) Mustafa
Emin Paşa Yalı 153
Kız Kulesi 149
Kont Ostrorog Yalı 153
Köprülü Amcazade Hüseyin
Paşa Yalı 154
Küçük Ayasofya
drinking & nightlife 80
sights 72-3
Küçük Göksu Deresi 153
Kuleli Military School 153
Kuruçeşme, see Beşiktaş,
Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme
L
language 14, 208-16
legal matters 204
Leo III 181
lesbian travellers 32, 203
literature 192-3
Little Aya Sofya 72-3, 187
Little Urfa 93
lokantas 28, 30
M
markets 20
Marmara University
Republican Museum 71
Marmaray Project 202
medical services 204-5
Mehmet I 182
Mehmet II 182-4
Mehmet VI 184
metro 198-9, 201
Mevlevi 118
meyhanes 11, 26, 130, 123
Michael VIII Palaeologus 181
Mihrimah Sultan Mosque
108, 148
minibuses 202
Mısır Çarşısı 90
mobile phones 14, 206
Modernism 190-1
Monastery of Christ
Pantokrator 94
money 14, 25, 27, 166, 205
mosques 18, 25, 95
architecture 84, 147
cultural considerations
24
muggings 206
Museum of Innocence
13, 121
Museum of the Ancient
Orient 66
Museum of the Princes’
Islands 164
Museum of Turkish &
Islamic Arts 71
museums 18-19
Museum Pass İstanbul
13, 69
music 19, 176
Mustafa Kemal 184
Müzenin Kahvesi 13
N
Naval Museum 142
Nevruz 21
New Mosque 92-3
Nişantaşı 124
novels 192-3
Nuruosmaniye Mosque 92
O
opening hours 27, 32,
39, 203
Ortaköy, see Beşiktaş,
Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme
Ortaköy Mosque 143
Osman 182
Ottoman architecture 18,
188-91
Ottoman Revivalism 190-1
Ottoman sultanate 184
Özal, Turgut 184
P
Palace of Constantine
Porphyrogenitus 108
palaces 20
parks 20
Paşabahçe 155
INDE X E- O
Emirgan Woods 25, 155
Enrico Dandolo 181
Erdoğan, Tayyip 185
etiquette
hamams 39
mosques 24
European Capital of
Culture 185
events 21-2
Eyüp Sultan Mosque 110
224
INDE X E AT I N G
Patisserie Lebon 118-19
Patriarchal Church of
St George 25, 107
pedestrian safety 205
Pera Museum 120
Pera Palace Hotel 13,
119-20
planning 14-15
accommodation 167
Bazaar District 83-4
Beyoğlu 113-14
budgeting 25
children, travel with
23
consumer taxes 35
festivals & events 21-2
Istanbul’s
neighbourhoods
42-3
itineraries 16-17
local life 24
museum passes 13
repeat visitors 13
Sultanahmet & Around
44-5
travel seasons 21-2
Western Districts 102
police 203
politics 177
population 177
postal services 205
Princes’ Islands 23, 162-4,
156-7
public holidays 205
public transport 199-201
R
racial discrimination
205
Rahmi M Koç Museum
23, 159
Recep Tayyip Erdoğan
185
red-light district 93
religion 177
robbery 206
Roxelana 180
Rumeli Hisarı 23, 154,
157, 188
Rumeli Kavağı 158
Rumi, Celaleddin 118
Rüstem Paşa Mosque 92
Sights 000
Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
S
Sadberk Hanım Museum
158
safety 205-6
Sakıp Sabancı Museum
155
Şakirin Mosque 13, 148, 191
SALT Beyoğlu 120
SALT Galata 117
Schneidertempel Art
Center 117
Şehzade Mehmet Mosque
93
Şemsi Ahmed Paşa
Mosque 148
Septimius Severus 178-9
shopping 34-7, see also
Shopping subindex
Sinan, Mimar 9, 50, 88, 89,
93, 148, 155, 184, 189
Sirkeci
drinking & nightlife 80
entertainment 80
food 78-9
sights 73-6
Soğukçeşme Sokak 72
Sokollu Şehit Mehmet
Paşa Mosque 73
spas 38-9
Spice Bazaar 90
sports 144
Süleyman the Magnificent
180, 183, 184
Süleymaniye Mosque 9,
88-9, 5, 8, 189
Sultan Selim Mosque 109
Sultanahmet 42, 44-82,
230-3
accommodation 168-71
activities 81-2
drinking & nightlife
79-80
entertainment 80
food 45, 76-8
highlights 44
shopping 45
sights 45-78
transport 45
walking tours 77
Sultanahmet Park 74
Theodora 180, 181
Theodosius I 179, 181
Theodosius II 181
time 14, 206
tipping 27, 39, 205
Topbaş, Kadir 185
Tophane
drinking & nightlife
131-2
entertainment 135-6
food 124-6
shopping 136-7
sights 117-19
Tophane Müşiri Zeki
Paşa Yal 155
Topkapı Palace 7, 53-61, 7,
54-5, 75
tourism 176, 184
tourist information 14, 206
tours
cultural 82
food 13, 29-30, 93,
124, 149
walking 81, 82
train travel 200
trams (tramvay) 198-9,
200-1
transport 176, 198-202
language 211-12
travel cards 199
travel seasons 14-15
travel to İstanbul 15,
198-200
travel within İstanbul 15,
200-2
Turkish language 208-12
Turkish Republic 184
weather 15, 21-2
websites 14-15
Western Districts 43,
102-112, 244
food 103, 110-12
highlights 102
sights 104-10
transport 103
walks 111
whirling dervish ceremony
82, 119
women travellers 207
WWI 184
U
Bahar Restaurant 96
Balıkçı Sabahattin 76
Banyan 143
Borsa 124
Brasserie La Brise 129
Burç Ocakbaşı 97
Büyükada Kültür Evi
164
Üsküdar 43, 146-9, 245
accommodation 165-73
food 147, 149
highlights 146
sights 148-9
transport 147
V
vacations 205
views 19
visas 14, 206-7
T
Taksim Meydanı 121
Tarabya 155
taxis 201
telephone services 206
theft 206
W
walks
Along the Walls 111
Galatasaray to Galata 128
Sultanahmet Saunter 77
Y
Yeni Valide Mosque 148
Yeniköy 155
Yıldız Park 23, 25, 142
Z
Zarif Mustafa Paşa Yalı
154
Zoe 180
5EATING
A
Ahırkapı Balıkçısı 76
Antiochia 127
Asitane 110
Asmalı Canım Ciğerim
129
Asmalı Cavit 126
Aşşk Kahve 143
B
C
Ca’ d’Oro 125
Caferağa Medresesi
Lokanta & Çay Bahçesi
78
Changa 129
Çiğdem Pastanesi 78
Cihannüma 76
Çokçok 129
Cooking Alaturka 76
22 5
D
Datlı Maya 131
Demeti 131
Develi 79
Dönerci Şahin Usta 96
Enstitü 127
F
Fasuli Lokantaları 79, 126
Fatih Damak Pide 94
Feraye 131
Fes Cafe 96
Fürreyya Galata Balıkçısı
97
G
Galata House 126
Galata Konak Patisserie
Cafe 126
Gani Gani Şark Sofras 130
Güney Restaurant 126
H
Hacı Abdullah 129
Hafız Mustafa 78
Hamdi Restaurant 94
Havuzlu Restaurant 96
Helvetia Lokanta 130
Heyamola Ada Lokantası
164
Hocapaşa Pidecisi 78
House Cafe 127
Hünkar 124
I
İmren Lokantası 97
İstanbul Modern
Cafe/Restaurant
125-6
J
Jash 131
Journey 131
K
Kafe Ara 129
Kallavi 130
Kanaat Lokantas 149
Kantın 124
Karadeniz Aile Pide ve
Kebap Salonu 78
Karakol Restaurant 78
Karaköy Güllüoğlu 124
L
Lokanta Maya 124-5
Lucca 159
M
Mama 158
Matbah 76
Medı Şark Sofrası 130
Meze by Lemon Tree 126
Midpoint 127
Mikla 129
Mistanbul Hancı Cafe 149
MüzedeChanga 158
N
Namlı 97, 126
Nar Lokantası 97
O
Onur Et Lokantası 96
P
Paşazade 78
Pierre Loti Café 112
S
Saray Muhallebicisi 130
Sefa Restaurant 78
Sıdıka 143
Siirt Fatih Büryan 96
Sofyalı 9, 127
Sumahan on the Water 158
Sur Ocakbaşı 96
Sütiş 159
T
Tarihi Haliç İşkembecisi
110
Teras Restaurant 78
V
Vogue 143
Y
Yücetepe Kır Gazinosu
Restaurant 164
Z
K
Zencefil 129
Zübeyir Ocakbaşı 127
Zuma 143
Kahve Dünyası 98
Kiki 134
Kybele Cafe 80
6 &DRINKING
NIGHTLIFE
Lale Bahçesi 98
Le Fumoir 132
Leb-i Derya 133, 123
Leb-i Derya Richmond
133
Litera 133
Love Dance Point 133
5 Kat 134
360 123
A
Anjelique 144
Araf 134
Atölye Kuledıbı 132
B
Babylon 135
Baylo 132
Bigudi Cafe 134
Büyük Londra Oteli Bar
134
C
Cafe Meşale 79
Cafe Susam 134
Çırağan Palace Kempinski
Hotel 144
Club 17 134
D
Denizen Coffee 80
Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi
79-80
Dogzstar 133
E
Erenler Çay Bahçesi
98
Ethem Tezçakar Kahveci
98
H
Hazzo Pulo Çay Bahçesi
132
Hotel Nomade Terrace
Bar 79
I
Indigo 133
J
Jolly Joker 134
L
M
Manda Batmaz 132
Mavra 131
Mikla 132
MiniMüzikHol 134
Münferit 133
N
NuTeras 133
O
Off Pera 133
P
Pandeli 98
Perla Kallâvi Nargile Cafe
134
R
Reina 144
S
Şark Kahvesi 98
Sensus Wine Bar 132
Set Üstü Çay Bahçesi 80
Smyrna 135
Sortie 144
Supperclub 144
T
Tek Yön 135
360 132
Tophane Nargile Cafes
131
Türk Ocaği Kültür ve
Sanat Merkezi İktisadi
İşletmesi Çay Bahçesi
98
U
Urban 133
INDE X D R I N K I N G & N I G H TL I F E
E
Karaköy Lokantası 125
Kitchenette 127
Kiva Han 126
Köfteci Arnavut 110
Kömür Turk Mutfağı 110
Konyalı Lokantası 79
Kuru Fasülyeci Erzincanlı
Ali Baba 96
226
7 SHOPPING
L
B
Vefa Bozacısı 98
A
Bosphorus Tours 145
W
A La Turca 138
Abdulla Natural Products
99
Ak Gümüş 99
Ali Muhıddin Hacı Bekir
100, 137
Armine 100
Artrium 137
Arzu Kaprol 136
La Cave Wine Shop 138
Lâl 136
Lâle Pastanesi 73
Lale Plak 137
Leyla Eski Eşya
Pazarlama 138
Lokum 145
V
White Mill 135
INDE X E NT E R TA I N M E NT
X
X Bar 132
Y
Yeni Marmara 80
Yeşil Ev 79
Z
Zeyrekhane 98-9
3ENTERTAINMENT
B
Bahar Korçan 136
Berrin Akyüz 138
Beyoğlu Olgunlaşma
Enstıtüsü 137
C
Cocoon 80
B
Babylon 135
G
Galata Mevlevi Museum
135
Garajistanbul 136
H
Hodjapasha Culture
Centre 80
I
İstanbul Jazz Center
14
M
Munzur Cafe & Bar 135
N
Nardis Jazz Club
135
S
D
Dear East 136
Denizler Kitabevi 137
Derviş 99
Dhoku 100
G
Galeri Kayseri 81
Gönul Paksoy 124
H
Hazif Mustafa 100
Hammam 136
Haremlique 145
Horhor Flea Market
99
I
İroni 136
İstanbul Kitapçısı 137
İstanbul Modern Gift Shop
136
Iznik Classics & Tiles
81
Salon 135
M
Malatya Pazari 101
Mariposa 138
Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery 81
Mehmet Kalmaz Baharat
101
Mephisto 137
Muhlis Günbattı 99
Jennifer’s Hamam 81
Tamirane 161
Toprak 135
K
Sights 000
Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
Khaftan 81
Koç Deri Leather 99
Kurukahveci Mehmet
Efendi 100
F
Four Seasons Istanbul at
the Bosphorus 145
G
Gedikpaşa Hamamı 101
I
P
Pandora 137
Paşabahçe 137
İstanbul Walks 81
L
Les Arts Turcs 82
R
Robinson Crusoe 137
M
S
Müzenin Kahvesi 82
Selda Okutan 136
Seran Biçasi 100
Serhat Geridönmez 99
Silk & Cashmere 100
SIR 136
Şişko Osman 100
Sofa 100
T
Tezgah Alley 137
Tulu 81
U
Ucuzcular Bahaat 101
V
Vakko Indirim 100
Y
Yazmacı Necdet Danış 99
Yilmaz Ipekçilik 81
J
T
C
Cağaloğlu Hamamı 82
Çemberlitaş Hamamı
101
Cooking Alaturka 82
2 SPORTS &
ACTIVITIES
A
Ağa Hamamı 138
Ambassador Spa 82
Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan
Hamamı 81
T
Turkish Flavours 124
U
Urban Adventures 82
4SLEEPING
1001 Nites 172
A
Acra Hotel 168
Agora Life Hotel 170
A’jia 171
And Hotel 171
Anemon Galata 172
Ansen Suites 173
Ayasofya Konakları
168
B
Bahaus Hostel 170
Beş Oda 171
C
Chambers of the Boheme
173
Cheers Hostel 170
22 7
D
Dersaadet Hotel 169
E
F
Four Seasons Istanbul at
the Bosphorus 173
G
Gala Hotel 163
Galateia Residence 171
H
Hanedan Hotel 170
Merit Halki Palace 163
Metropolis Hostel 170
Motif Apartments 171
I
Ottoman Hotel Imperial
168
İstanbul Apartments 172
İstanbul Holiday
Apartments 172
M
Manzara Istanbul 172
Marmara Guesthouse
168
Marmara Pera 172
N
Neorion Hotel 169
O
P
Pera Palace Hotel
172
R
Radisson Blu Bosphorus
Hotel 173
S
Sarı Konak Hotel 168
Saruhan Hotel 169
Serdar-ı Ekrem 59 172
Sirkeci Konak Hotel
168
Sultans Royal Hotel
169
Sumahan on the Water
171
T
Tan Hotel 170
TomTom Suites 171
W
Witt Istanbul Hotel
171
World House Hostel 173
INDE X SL E E P I N G
Emine Sultan Hotel
170
Erten Konak 169
Hotel Alp 169
Hotel Empress Zoe 168
Hotel Ibrahim Pasha 168
Hotel Nomade 169
Hotel Peninsula 170
Hotel Şebnem 169
Hotel Uyan İstanbul 169
House Hotel 173
217
Behind the Scenes
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OUR READERS
Many thanks to the travellers who used the
last edition and wrote to us with helpful
hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:
A Claire Allen, B Leila Badsha, Kim Browne, Ceyda
Bulat, Andy Bundell, CJanet Cater, D Gabriella
Dembitz, Nick Dillen, Ernest Djan, Stefan Durwael,
Margrit Dutt, F Stefano Fontana, G Stephanie
Gessner, Tugrul Gokce, Mustafa Gokhan Bulut,
Patrick Gourley, Bulent Guzelkan, H Anthony
Hartnett, Chris Harvey, I Laura Iseppi De Filippis, K Miha Kolner, Irma Kreiten, Nelleke Kruijs
Voorberge, M Sheila Miller, Beatrice Milmor, P
Florencia Peña, Johan Poels, Q Edgar F. Quiñonesmorales, R Hugh Rosenbaum, Ronan Royer,
S Stephen Sharpe, Ayse Slevogt, Karin Sluiter,
Alex Sutcliffe, T Françoise Terzian, Sunil Thakar,
Anemone Thomas, Victoria Thomson, U Serhat
Uzunel, V Bernard Vixseboxse, Kate Vyborny, W
RI Watson, Stefan Weck, Teresa Wong, Y Tahir
Yasin, Huseyin Yilmaz
AUTHOR THANKS
Virginia Maxwell
Many thanks to Pat Yale, Faruk Boyacı, Tahir
Karabaş, Eveline Zoutendijk, George Grundy,
Saffet Tonguç, Demet Sabancı Çetindoğan,
Ercan Tanrıvermiş, Ann Nevans, Tina Nevans,
Jennifer Gaudet, Özlem Tuna, Shellie Corman,
Mehmet Umur, Emel Güntaş, Tuna Mersinli,
Halûk Dursun, İnci Döndaş, İlber Ortayli, Selin
Rozanes, Ansel Mullins, Megan Clark, Atilla
Tuna, Elif Aytekin and the many locals who
shared their knowledge and love of the city
with me.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Illustrations p46-7, p48-9 by Javier Zarracina.
Cover photograph: Yeni Mosque, İstanbul,
Turkey; Murat Ayranci/Photolibrary ©.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
21 8
THIS BOOK
BEHIND THE SCENES
This 7th edition of Lonely
Planet’s İstanbul guidebook
was researched and written
by Virginia Maxwell. The
previous three editions were
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